1880 Facts about Port and Madeira by Henry Vizetelly

Funclval, and some Famous Wine-Stores there. 183

are not gathered until they are ripe; that the work in the lagar is properly done; and to arrange for the transport of the niosto to their Funchal wine-stores. There the mosto continues fer menting,with thebunghole ofeach cask simply covered over with afig-leaf,generally until the middle of November. Either before or after the fermentation a small quantity of brandy is added, varying in quantity according to the quality of the mosto, but seldom exceeding three per cent. When the wine has thoroughly cleared itself it is racked and lotted according to its quality, and afterwardsfoi-warded to the estufa or heating magazine: a specialty with regard to the wines of Madeira of which I shall presently speak. In face of the store where the mosto is re ceived is a store for brandy; and thence we proceed under the vine-covered corridors to other stores containing wines a year old,just arrived from the estufa—wines which, after having re ceived a further modicum of spirit (varying from one to three gallons per pipe), were undergoing racking and fining prepara tory to being passed on to the Pateo stores of the firm. There they will remain in butts holdiug 400 gallons each, until fully matured for shipment. It should be noted that the mosto is fermented and the wine heated, racked, and passed fi-om one store to another in what are termed canteiro or scantling pipes, each holding 130 gallons, old wine measure. The Estufa stores of Messrs. Cossart, G-ordon, and Co. com prise a block of buildings oftwo stories,divided intofour distinct compartments. In the first of these common winesare subjected to a temperatui'e of 140 deg. Eahi-enheit—derived from flues, heated with anthracite coal—for the space of three months. In the next compartment wines of an intermediate quality are heated up to 180 deg.for a period of four and a-half months; while the third is set apart for superior wines, heated variously from 110to120deg.for the term ofsix months. The fourthcom partment,known as the"Calor," possesses no flues, but-derives its heat, varying from 90 to 100 deg., exclusively from the com partments adjacent; and here only high-class wines are placed. The object of this heating of the wine is to destroy whatever