1880 Facts about Port and Madeira by Henry Vizetelly

Funclial, and some Famous Wine-Stores there. 185>

during the night,in order that any mishap of this kind may he at once rectified. Each compartment is provided with double- folding-doors, and after it is filled with wine the inner doors are- coated over with lime, so as to close up any chance apertures.. When it is necessary to enter the estufa the outer doors only are opened,and a small trap in the inner door is pushed hack to- allow of the entrance of the man in charge, who passes between the various stacks of casks,tapping them one after the other to- satisfy himself that no leakage is going on.. On coming out of the estufa, after a stay of afull hour,he instantly wraps himself" in a blanket, drinks a tumblerful of wine, and then shuts him self up in a closet, into which no cool air penetrates, provided for the purpose. Messrs. Cossart, Gordon, and Co. usually place their wines in the estufa during the monthsof January and February, which admits of their removal to other stores; before the next vintage commences. During the time they are in the estufa they diminish some 10 to 15 per cent, through the- evaporation of their aqueous parts. There still remain the Pateo stores to be noticed. These are- situate in the rear of the counting-house of the finn,where all the books and papers relating to its transactions since its first establishment are carefully preserved. Passing beneath an archway and across a narrow coui*t planted with flowers,among- which are gei-aniums trained level with the first-floor windows,, we enter a small store,formiug a kind of ante-room to the stores which follow. The first of these contains wines in butts holding four pipes each, in perfect condition for shipment, and only needing to be drawn off. Here we tasted a few specialties,, including some Branco secco, made exclusively from the ver- delho species of grape, which,having been peifectly fermented,, possessed all the qualities of a remarkably fine dry Madeira also some Sercial from Ponta do Pargo,of vintage 1865,ex ceedingly dry and clean-tasting, and slightly pale. In the store- above were wines of difierent qualities and ages,including some Palhetinho, or straw-coloured wine, delicate in flavour and with a fine bouquet; also several still paler wines, going under the

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