Horace Small 2019

SELF-FABRIC COLLAR // A collar that is constructed from the same material as the body of the garment. SERGE STITCH // An overcasting technique done on the cut edge of the fabric to prevent unraveling. SIDE VENTS // Slits found at the bottom of side seams. They are fashion details that allow for comfort and ease of movement. SILICONE PERMANENT CREASES // Permanent silicone creases that will stay sharp when machine laundered and dried without re-pressing. SINGLE NEEDLE // Single row of stitching at seam, see “Topstitching.” SNUGTEX // Rows of rubber inserted into waistband to secure shirt tail. SOLARBAN® // Fabric technology that reduces the absorption of heat rays which allows you to stay up to ten degrees cooler. STAINSMART® // A dual-action stain protection technology combining the benefit of repellency with the added feature of stain-release. STORM FLAP // A strip of fabric sewn under or over the front zip or snap closure of an outerwear garment to protect against wind and moisture. STRETCH // Advanced stretch for superior mobility. TAPED SEAMS // A strip of fabric sewn to the seam of a garment to prevent distortion. In outerwear, taped seams aid in waterproofing. THINSULATE™ // A trademark of 3M® company, thin insulation composed of polyester or polyolefin microfibers. TOPSTITCHING // A design feature, both decorative and functional, that is an additional means of securing fabric plies whereby the original seam is folded under and sewn down. TWILL // ( 3 x 1, 2 x 1 ) A fabric characterized by micro diagonal ribs producing a soft, smooth finish. UTILITY LOOP // Placement option for equipment which aides easy access and dropped for better range of sight. VISA® // A brand of soil-release.

MIC LOOP POCKET // Placement option for microphone which aides easy access. MICROFIBER // This fabric is tightly woven from a very fine poly thread and has a suede finish for a luxurious, soft feel. Microfiber fabric is naturally water repellent due to its construction process and when specially treated, can also be waterproof. MITERED-EDGE POCKETS/FLAPS // Edges sewn at angle to prevent flaps from curling and pocket from catching lint. NAPOLEON POCKET // Concealed side-entry chest pocket. NO-CURL COLLAR // A thin stay is knitted into the edge of the collar to prevent curling while wearing or after wash. PATCH POCKET // A pocket attached to the outside of a garment. PLACKET // The part of a shirt or jacket where the garment fastens or buttons together. POPLIN // A tightly woven, durable, medium weight cotton or cotton blend fabric made using a rib variation of the plain weave which creates a slight ridge effect. POST-CURE // A finish used primarily in bottom weights that allows a permanent crease to be pressed and baked into the garment. PRE-CURE // Fabrics that have been cured, finished, and treated at a mill. PRIMALOFT® // Registered trademark of Albany International® that is made of bonded polyester microfibers and used as thermal insulation. QUARTER-TOP POCKETS // Slant slightly away from the side seam on the front of trouser. RAGLAN SLEEVES // Sleeves set with diagonal seams from the neck to the armpit. RATCHETING ZIPPER // Durable zipper that prevents teeth failure and corrosion. RIB KNIT // A textured knit that has the appearance of vertical lines. It is highly elastic and retains “memory.” RIPSTOP // A tightly woven, durable, medium-weight fabric characterized by a durable thread at regular intervals to prevent rips and tears. SCALLOPED FLAPS // Originated from military uniforms with two concave arches anchored by 3 points.

ECOSPUN // A fleece outerwear fabric made from at least 50% of materials reclaimed from recycled plastic bottles. END-ON-END // A 2-ply weave of different color yarns that run parallel against each other so that both colors are visible. EPAULET // A shoulder strap originally associated with military uniforms to attach shoulder boards and decorative roping. EXTENDED TAILS // A shirt constructed so the back hem is longer than the front. This aids in keeping the shirt tucked during strenuous activities. EYELETS // Small holes or perforations made in a series to allow for breathability. Finished with either stitching or brass grommets. FLEECE // A multi-yarn fabric identified by a soft napped interior and a smooth exterior. HAND // Quality or characteristic of fabrics that are perceived by the sense of touch; e.g. firmness, softness, fineness, drape. HOOK-AND-LOOP CLOSURE // Hook-and-loop fasteners consist of two layers: a “hook” side, which is a piece of fabric covered with tiny plastic hooks, and a “loop” side, which is covered with even smaller and “hairier” plastic loops. INTERLINING // A fabric fused or sewn inside specific parts of a garment to provide stiffening. INVERTED PLEATS // A box pleat reversed so that the fullness is turned inward. JERSEY KNIT // This fabric has a definite smooth side, the outside, and a textured side, the inside. KNIT FABRIC // Fabric made by interlocking yarn or thread in a series of connected loops. LOCKER PATCH // A semi-oval panel sewn into the inside back portion of a garment, just under the collar seam, to reinforce the garment and minimize stretching when hung on a hook. MELAMINE BUTTONS // Buttons durable enough to withstand industrial-laundry conditions — exposure to high temperatures, alkaline, etc. MESH // Knit with an open texture for increased breathability.

BACK YOKE // A piece of fabric that connects the back of a garment to the shoulders. This allows the garment to lay flat and drape nicely. BADGE TAB // 1”-wide self fabric, reinforced with interlining to secure attachment of badge. BAN-ROL WAISTBAND // Interlined waistband reinforced to prevent waistband from rolling. BANDED COLLAR // Contains two separate collar pieces – a collar band and the collar itself. This is a more upgraded collar and creates enough room for a tie. BARTACK // Reinforced stitching used at stress points. BILLY POCKET // A pocket with a 3½” opening and 8” depth, located below hip pockets. BINDING // A sewing method that encases an edge or seam with fabric. BI-SWING BACK // A vertical flange on the left and right side of the back beside the arm holes, allowing forward movement of the arms without restriction. BOX PLEAT // A single, uniform fold which allows for more room and comfort. BUTTON-THROUGH SLEEVE PLACKET // A small placket located on the sleeve, by the cuff, which contains a single button closure. COMBED COTTON // Cotton yarn that has been combed to remove short fibers and straighten or arrange longer fibers in parallel order, resulting in a smooth yarn used in finer garments. CONVERTIBLE COLLAR // A rolled collar sewn directly to the neckline that can be worn open or closed. COOL-FLEX® // A waistband curtain composed as a one-piece elastic web, and woven with an open-mesh construction to promote stretch and breathability. DOUBLE-NEEDLE STITCHED // A finish which uses two needles to create parallel rows of visible stitching. It gives the garment a cleaner, more finished look and adds durability. DRI-BALANCE® // Dual-faced fabric that is uniquely engineered to optimize

moisture-wicking properties for superior comfort and dry fabric.

DYED-TO-MATCH // Buttons or trims that are the same color as the garment onto which they are sewn.

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