TE19 Iberian Adventure

Passing Time in Portugal

“Salazar built elementary schools in every village.” Matilde noted.

But despite Salazar’s efforts, by the fall of the regime Portugal still suffered the worst literacy rates in Europe.

“Look at the Bomboarderos tracks.” Matilde pointed to the almost vertical tracks lacerating the scorched hills.

“My Grandfather explained about the wildfires.”

“Youshouldseetheflamesatnight.”Hereyesflashed, “Horrendous, but strangely mesmerising.”

Further on we reached a water hole carved into the rock. Matilde paused to peer into the abyss. In her eyes reflects the indecipherable threshold of emptiness.

“Your grandparents seem happy.” I broke the silence.

“My uncle and his family emigrated; my Aunt’s in Lisbon.” She replied.

Beyond the village road repairs had ground to a halt and asphalt gave way to dirt. We turned back and took a track that flanked the village then fell away to a ravine, where a time-beaten ruin was chocked by branches and aloe vera tangles. Matilde’s eyes flashed like streams of light. “Sometimes I feel like that house.” she half smiled, “like I’m suffocating. But even now I’m not sure whether I could ever really leave.” 159