TE19 Iberian Adventure

Passing Time in Portugal

Painted panels portray the life of St Anthony – a follower of St Francisof Assisi, known forhispowerful sermonsand hisdevotion to the poor. One panel depicted the glowing St Anthony holding a severed leg, illustrating the miracle of the reattached limb. The adjoining museum houses Palaeolithic remains, a Bronze Age helmet, a bone statue, ceramics, flags, pictures and parchments, the original 1504 town charter, and a magnificent diptych by Francisco de Campos depicts the Annunciation and the Presentation. We purchased icy water from a kiosk where a young lady read a novel, outside an old man fanned air with a newspaper. It was siesta time and people lazed along the riverbank. Nearby, yachts sparkled in the palm lined marina. The old town is sea of terracotta roofs, shaded streets thread between historic buildings. Hawkers touting snorkelling excursions, whale- watching, banana boat kitesurfing day cruises. In the Republic Square a stone-pillared slave market, the dark shadow of empire, is surrounded by cigarette kiosks and parked Servetas. From the white-stone Marina ships embarked on voyages of discovery, returning with ivory, gold, silver, and slaves. Rich merchants poured their wealth into fine churches and houses.

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“The epithet Navigator is a misnomer,” Pedro explained, “Prince Henry didn’t embark on a single voyage himself.”

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