1 Generations of thirsty, lei - bedecked visitors have encountered the magnificent Mai Tai, Ha waii's most famous drink, From the big hotel bars in Waikiki to the smallest bistros on the Neighbor Islands, natives and visit ors alike have sung the praises of this "friend liest drink in the Is lands." A heady concoction of three rums, juices, sticks of sugar cane andpineap ple, none of which can be left out to produce the right character, the Mai Tai is not a "drink to be taken lightly.Its delicious flavor is enjoyed respect fully by those who are fa miliar with the age-old Polynesian rum drink. It is said by many that there are two ways tobe- c o m e a kamaaina (Ha waiian' old-timer): one is to spend seven years learning to know the is lands and their peoples and the other is to spend an afternoon on Waikiki Beach and indulge inthree Mai Tais. Bartender Takao Ya- maguchi, who presides over the famedSurf Room in the RoyalHawaiianHo tel, says the classic Mai Tai contains: 1 jigger light rum, 1 jigger golden rum, 1 jigger dark rum, juice of 1 line, dash of orgeat syrup, dash of rock candy syrup, dash of Orange Curacao. Place one - half lime"shell ( squeezed ) with ingre dients in a large old- fashioned glass, fill with shaved ice, garnish with sprig of mint, sugarcane, pineapple stick and a vanda orchid and two straws.