Athenry News & Views Spring 2026

Athenry News & Views

Baluchistan province comprises almost half the area of Pakistan and about 6% of its population. A land of plateau, mountain ranges, ravines, canyons and shoreline, it is a desert physically more typical of Iran than Indian subcontinent. It suffers from ruinous floods and drought as well as intermittent unrest. My tour began in Karachi, a city of 21M. A modern city with wonderful museums, mausoleums, mosques, lively markets and vast beaches by the Indian Ocean. Colonial buildings survive from the British era. Heading westwards out of Karachi accompanied by an American lady Daniele, our guide Shifa, driver and an armed escort. An archway proclaimed the beginning of Baluchistan. Solar pumps irrigated land. We crossed dried-up rivers, followed the coast or dipped into stark inland valleys. Oil tankers travelled to/from Iran. Unofficial traders on their motorbikes carried barrels of oil eastwards, and anything they could sell the other way. We skirted by Ormara (as did Alexander the Great). Crossing vast open spaces under sand-tinted skies, we headed to barren hills and the mud volcanoes - silent as a Martian landscape, Hell on Earth is so beautiful. In other places we saw giant grass tussocks. But there’s enough for farmers to eke out a living. Traval: Baluchistan 2024

By: Paul Holland

Baluchistan is rich in gas and minerals but local people don’t benefit much. Foreign workers can be attacked, towns taken over and security responses can be deadly. We entered the port of Gwadar, 80 km short of Iran. Once a possession of Oman, it was bought by the Aga Khan who gave it to Pakistan. There are some glorious viewpoints and, for me, Gwadar was a Capetown in the desert. I thought Gwadar could be a Dubai if the Baluchi inhabitants were brought on board in Baluchistan’s trade and development. Leaving the area, we saw traditional style ships being constructed and visited a fish processing facility. Heading northeast, we saw plenty - old temples, forts in the desert, cement factories, valleys that went on forever, railways, monuments and a river once popular with Western Overland travellers desperate for a bath. In Quetta - once a hippie Mecca - security was very serious. We were denied further travel in Baluchistan but got instead time in Sindh and Punjab - Pakistan’s breadbasket. We got beautiful Bahawalpur, sunsets on the Indus, canals, fishermen on vast lakes.... One day I noticed partridges congregating near large cracks on a road - waiting patiently for grain trucks to hit the obstacle and spill some of their load. it’s all about survival!

Gateway to Baluchistan

Locals with camal near Bahawalpur

Lake fisherman

Traffic health & safety?

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