Homes & Estates

second, an embrace of eclectic influences. “As clients and chefs travel around the world, many restaurants are mixing traditional French ingredients with exotic ones from Asia,” says Brooke, who cites Matsuhisa at Le Royal Monceau as Paris’ first Japanese-Peruvian restaurant. In décor, the 16-year Paris resident ob- serves a break from classic French settings to more daring modern aesthetics. London’s culinary scene has emerged as one of the world’s most exciting — jokes about British food are becoming obsolete in the capital — as premier chefs from around the world have taken cover in the city’s fine hotels. In fact, France’s prolific Alain Ducasse earns another trio of Michelin stars at The Dorchester, a grande dame of London hotels, while homegrown talent includes three-star Dinner by Heston Blumenthal at the Mandarin Oriental. At the Plaza Athénée, and to a lesser degree at The Dorchester, Ducasse prepares a lighter French cuisine showcasing seasonal local produce, a trend gaining momentum across Europe according to chef Alessandro Buffolino of Milan’s Hotel Principe di Savoia. “Increasingly, guests show a passion for light cuisine and innovative ways of cooking,” he says, although he admits French haute cuisine remains fash- ionable. “Fusion cuisine is also popular, with iconic

Asian ingredients such as lemongrass or soy in tradi- tional Italian dishes,” adds Buffolino. A favorite of traveling celebrities is Rome’s Hotel Hassler atop the Spanish Steps, and its sixth-floor restaurant Imàgo occupies what was once a rooftop terrace. Guests have panoramic views of the city’s iconic landmarks while enjoying the contemporary Ital- ian cuisine of chef Francesco Apreda, who turns out imaginative dishes like red onion and foie gras risotto with spicy coffee powder. Roberto E. Wirth, owner and general manager of the Hassler, states, “Hotels hire famous chefs to get the maximum promotion of their properties and restaurants,” but insists his hotel’s relationship with Apreda is not so calculated or cynical. “Things were different at the Hassler, as our chef became famous and well-known worldwide through his work with us,” explains the hotelier. Wirth believes that a single distinguished res- taurant is insufficient for a world-class property. “I’m convinced that exclusive hotels should have at least two restaurants offering different types of cuisine: a gourmet dining room and a more traditional restaurant to satisfy all guests,” he says. In addition to Michelin- starred Imàgo, the Hassler houses Salone Eva, offer- ing more traditional Roman cuisine and an Italian riff

COURTESY PRINCIPE DI SAVOIA

“Increasingly, guests show a passion for light cuisine and innovative ways of cooking,” —Chef Alessandro Buffolino

COURTESY LA MAMOUNIA

LE MAROCAIN, MARRAKESH

96 | Homes & Estates

Made with