Стр. 23 - Bite Autumn 2012
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fashion
CLAUDIA GAMBA
The inspiration behind my collection lays in my interest towards
architecture and history, which along with experimentation of Shape’s
construction, constituted the muse that gave life to each design. I
found correlations between projects of future architectures that will
be realised 100 years from now, and the “Spomeniks”, monuments of
formerYugoslavia that were built in the 1960s/70s as memorials to the
Second World War. In their dilapidated condition, their symbolism is
now lost as the visual language has changed.
My aim was to bring to life the connections between these two
different architectures through my designs, by analysing the analogies
and differences and giving back their “voices”, a defined and loud visual
language through clothes. The result is a minimal yet bold, sharp and
modern outlook, where a methodical and attentive approach in the
construction of the garments assures a perfect fit.
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CHARLES LU
I embraced corsetry because it
commands extremes and gives
potency to posture.
The result is the antithesis of what
the common world asks of me.The
idea of something light and soft
juxtaposed with a hard, almost
crude material felt right for the
collection. I wanted to present silk
in a very organic way, where raw
edges are celebrated and built on a
foundation.
wwHand torn, hand layered, and
tediously hand sewn to evoke a feeling
of natural existence. I love metal, and
used it organically and sparingly in the
form of industrial washers to represent
the final stage of the battle. Garments
are built on a foundation, some heavily
boned with traditional techniques but the
main feature were the hip pads, meant to
mimic creatures that appear larger than
themselves to ward off enemies.
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DOROTEA
POSPIHALJ
The collection inspired by iconic
images was designed based on
the philosophy of using high
quality materials and fabrics to
complement the design. Shapes
and silhouettes are voluminous
and often heavy; however using
washed silk in some of the designs,
mostly undergarments, gives it
contrast and also adds a soft feel
to the overall look and image.
Principal fabrics are made up of
different types of mohair that
are assembled together
in a patchwork pattern
and are different for each
piece that is
with leather and suede
to create the structure.
With garments that have a
complicated structure, these
are often assembled with
more than 60 pieces per
garment. The main
direction is doubling
and overlaying to
obtain the volume
and heaviness, and
at times is a bit
exaggerated with
attention to details,
using
quality
trimmings
and
fabrics on the
internal, where it
is not visible.
Style: Experimental, construction and decomposition.
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