T
he Tank Watch, the classic timepiece
designed by Louis Cartier in 1917,
revolutionised the era of modern design,
style and craftsmanship. As one of the
world’s first square wristwatches it represented
the perfect combination of fine watch-making
and art. From Cartier’s creative reinterpretation
of famous models such as the Chinese Tank,
the Crash Watch and the recently designed
Tank Anglaise, each model retained Louis
Cartier’s original concept.
In Cartier: The Tank Watch, writer and
historian Franco Cologni captures the historic
icon of the wristwatch that has made Cartier
one of the most respected and renowned
French jewellers and watchmakers in the
industry. The book celebrates one of Cartier’s
greatest masterpieces, taking the reader on a
journey of discovery with designs from their rich
archives, historical models and photographs
of Cartier’s most famous clients such as Clark
Gable and Andy Warhol, who made the Tank
Watch their favourite timepiece.
It was in December 1916, at a time when
France was at war and Paris was preparing for
the festive season, that Louis Cartier began
sketching an idea for a revolutionary watch
that he had in mind. He was already head of
the famous jewellery company, founded by
his grandfather Louis François in 1847, with
branches in New York and London. As a lover
of wristwatches he was one of the first to
wear one in France, although they would not
become really popular until the 1930s. At a
time when men’s pocket watches and women’s
timepieces in the form of pendants, brooches
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handles of a stretcher – two extended sides of a square – and,
graphically simplified, they would soon become the distinctive,
easily recognisable features of the Tank, a new watch.” The 1920s
saw the Tank Watch become the iconic timepiece that was worn by
aristocracy, celebrities and members of the upper class. Legendary
silent film actor Rudolf Valentino is said to have persuaded director
George Fitzmaurice to allow him to wear his Tank watch in every
scene of his last film, Son of the Sheik in 1926.
Through different variations of the Tank Watch such as the
Tank Cintrée (Curved Tank), Tank L.C. (for Louis Cartier) and
the petite Tank Allongée (Rectangular Tank) from 1919 onwards,
the design of the watch continued to reflect developments in
style. With a choice of Roman or Arabian numerals and the
option of platinum or gold, and later on, various woven metal
bracelets, the Tank increased its range of versions and popularity
throughout the early 20th century. The Tank Chinoise inspired
by the architectural doorway of Chinese temples would lead
to the creation of Chimera and Portique mystery clocks. Soon
Cartier’s clientele would include the Princes of Kapurthala, the
Aga Khan, the Maharajah of Patiala and the entire royal families of
Yugoslavia and Serbia.
Among leading Swiss watch-maker manufacturers such as
Patek Philippe, Audemars Pi
guet, Vacheron Con
stantin, R
olex,
Jaeger LeCoultre and Piaget
, French jeweller Cartier has
made
a fundamental contribution to the development of the wristwatch
and the Tank afforded Cartier’s credentials and reputation in the
and chatelaines were the style
of the day, Louis Cartier’s desire
to revolutionise the ideas of
watchmaking inspired him to create
the watch of the future.
Cartier: The Tank Watch gives
an insight into the history of the
prestigious watch, the collaboration
between Louis Cartier and Edmond
Jaeger that would span over three
decades, as well as showcasing
the various styles of watches that
superseded the original Tank. It
also reveals the important roles
that pioneers such as Nobel Prize
winner Swiss physicist Charles-
Édouard
Guillaume,
French
watchmaker Adrien Philippe (who
would later formed the brand Patek
Philippe with Antoine Norbert de
Patek) and Rolex founder Hans
Wilsdorf played behind the scenes
in the development of one of
Cartier’s most famous models,
the Santos: a watch modelled on
the famous flying pioneer Alberto
Santos-Dumont and the first
square watch designed to be worn
on a strap around the wrist.
The Tank Watch, influenced by
the British tanks that descended on
the German enemy lines during the
First World War in France, was the
key element in the creation of this
new technology. Franco Cologni
writes, “The tracks were like the
Page 113
“
Take that terrible watch off your wrist and
wear this!” When the embarrassed journalist
tried to refuse, Truman Capote insisted: “No,
please take it. I’ve got at least seven of them
at home!”
Courtesy of The Truman Capote Literary Trust
/
© Rue des Archives / Farabolafoto /Ital
Page 110
Gary Cooper, a legend of Hollywood’s
golden age and a symbol of masculinity and
elegance, was a Tank lover. Here he is wearing
his Tank Basculante. Circa 1940.
Courtesy of Mrs. Maria Cooper Janis / Rue
des Archives / RDA
Page 111
Stewart Granger, posing for posterity with
his gold Curved Tank on a 7-row flexible tile
bracelet, circa 1954.
Courtesy of Mrs. Tracy Granger © MGM /
Sunset Boulevard Collection
Page 126
Simone Signoret and Yves Montand in Los
Angeles, April 1960. The French star won an
Oscar for Best Actress of the Year, with her
role in Room at the Top. Yves Montand wore
the Tank watch that she had given him the
year before.
Courtesy of Mlle Catherine Vaudaux-Allégret /
© AP / Sipa
Swiss world of watchmaking, while
preserving its French identity. From
pocket watches to the wristwatch,
Louis Cartier achieved his goal of
bringing a revolutionary invention
into the 20th century and beyond
by changing people’s concept
and ideals of time-keeping, and
its unprecedented impact on the
watch industry is still evident today.
Cartier: The Tank Watch by
Franco Cologni is published by
Flammarion and can be purchased
from Rizzoli New York and other
leading book retailers.
www.groupe-flammarion.com
www.rizzoliusa.com