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44 • Vacations


Fall 2017

Vacations® •

Fall 2017 • 45

St. Regis Princeville Resort,

Kauai, Hawaii



in the


“Who’s hungry?”

I’m standing beside stacks of wooden crates, full of oysters freshly

plucked from the nearby bay. Wearing steel mesh gloves, our host digs

a knife into shell after shell, cranking each open to reveal a fleshy centre.

Although it’s early morning, we gobble up the briny meat faster than he

can shuck them – a perk to taking this tour of Bay Enterprises, a shellfish

farm in Malagash, Nova Scotia.

Oyster-eating isn’t the only experience to be had in this east coast

province. Visiting Nova Scotia, a highlight for me is playing sous-chef to

Alain Bosse, Nova Scotia’s top chef who also runs a culinary school in

Pictou County. In the morning, we shuffle from local markets, butchers,

and other purveyors, picking out produce and ingredients, followed by

an afternoon of farm-to-fork cooking in his farmhouse. Watching Bosse

harvest honeycombs from his backyard beehive, I realize “fresh and local”

is a way of life here.

Hours later, the table overflows with clam chowder, freshly shucked

oysters, beef strips marinated in a maple ginger glaze, and Asian-style

lobster rolls. The gluttonous feast sends me into a food coma overnight,

but by morning, I’m ready for a pancake pilgrimage to Sugar Moon Farm

– an Earltown sugar shack that attracts hungry hordes for their famed

flapjacks and maple products.

“We sell maple everything,” says our waiter. She’s not lying: the menu

features everything from maple butter to maple hot chocolate to maple

mustard. I dig my fork into a stack of fluffy buttermilk pancakes, topped

with maple whipped cream, and vow to visit the shop afterwards.

Stuffed, I seek a digestif at Steinhart Distillery, a farm overlooking the

idyllic Northumberland Shore. The shelves are stocked with craft

vodka and other spirits infused with local berries, like haskap, juniper

and strawberry, or even maple syrup. A shot of Pepperhead Habanero

Vodka beckons, but owner Thomas Steinhart cautions us beforehand.

“It’s holy Hannah hot,” he says. “The first time I made it, I almost called

the ambulance.”


thanks to

the rich soil and mild coastal climate, Nova Scotia

is home to more than 70 grape growers, renowned

for producing crisp whites, ice wines, and sparkling

wines. After winery-hopping in the Annapolis Valley,

I wander the grapevines with a fizzy flute, feeling

utterly relaxed.

The feast finale is at Hall’s Harbour, a fishing village

overlooking the Bay of Fundy. Here, seeing the world’s

highest tides isn’t the only attraction: choosing your

own live lobster – cooked and served at the local

seafood shack – is all the rage; but I can’t resist a plate

of lobster poutine.

Watching the boats bob in the harbour, I munch on

fries smothered in cheese, gravy, and sweet, juicy

lobster meat and plot ways to delay my departure.

I don’t want this gastronomic adventure to end.

After all, I haven’t yet explored the Wolfville Farmers

Market or sampled 20 cheeses at Fox Hill Cheese

House; but patting my burgeoning belly, I decide

some things are best reserved for a second visit.

This bountiful province on Canada’s east

coast has a thriving locavore culinary scene

influenced by the land and sea, and the

feast isn’t limited to Halifax.

By Lisa Jackson






Canada 150