1876 Facts About Sherry by Henry Vizetelly

21ie Assumed TJnwholesomeness of Sherry. 57

it the various elements of vinous vitality, it is scarcely possible to estimate. Wines the record of whose origin has been lost vdth the generations they have outlived are to he found in certain Jerez bodegas,sound and hale and seemingly with many long years still before them. Wines of a like antiquity, with the same amount of real vinous life in them,are not to he met with in any other viticultural district of the world. But they remain simply studies for fortunate connoissem-s, being not only beyond the reach of the multitude, but even of the longest purses. Consolation, however, is to be had in the fact that, by reason of.the powerful pungent flavour which these centenarian wines develop,the more juvenile growths are far better adapted for ordinary consumption. Unquestionably, when met with at its best, under conditions in which few people drink it in England, because they lack the courage and common sense to pay the due price for choice qualities, sherry has but few superiors among the white wines of the world. Sherry as exported is generally a blended wine,composed— unlike soleras of wines of one character, although of different ages—in the majority of instances, of several distinct types of wine. Eecent vintages have character imparted to them by an admixture of some flne old variety, which again will have its pungency subdued by a moderate addition of dulce, while a touch of vino de color, if fine and old, will not only impart the required tint but improve the flavour. Aguardiente, or colour less spirit distilled fi-om the grape,is added in a less or greater degree according to the character of the wine, which now under goes the process of fining with the white of eggs and fuller's earth. "When perfectly clean and bright it is drawn off into fresh casks, which if used for the first time will have undergone a thorough steaming on leaving the cooperage. Afterwards they will remain filled with hard water for the space of three months then be again steamed, and subsequently be filled up with common wine for another three months, when they are con sidered thoroughly seasoned. The blending of sherry is a most delicate operation. It is not sufficient to be a good judge of