Elite Traveler September-October 2015

DISCOVER Ritz Paris, new Gulfstream jet, Burberry it bag, St Moritz skiing

INFLUENCE Ivanka Trump, Jonathan Bues, Ashley W. Simpson

INSPIRE Food breaks in San Sebastián, off-road driving in Morocco

EXPLORE Argentina, Stockholm, Bangkok, New York, Jamaica

Issue 5/Volume 15 September/October 2015

Fall style special GOTHIC ROMANCE IN LONDON, STOCKHOLM'S SECRETS AND THE WORLD'S MOST STYLISH VILLAS

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ORAL REPRESENTATIONS CANNOT BE RELIED UPON AS CORRECTLY STATING REPRESENTATIONS OF THE DEVELOPER. FOR CORRECT REPRESENTATIONS, MAKE REFERENCE TO THE DOCUMENTS REQUIRED BY SECTION 718.503, FLORIDA STATUTES, TO BE FURNISHED BY A DEVELOPER TO A BUYER OR LESSEE. All artist’s or architectural renderings, sketches, graphic materials and photos depicted or otherwise described herein are proposed and conceptual only, and are based upon preliminary development plans, which are subject to change. This is not an offering in any state in which registration is required but in which registration requirements have not yet been met. This advertisement is not an offering. It is a solicitation of interest in the advertised property. No offering of the advertised units can be made and no deposits can be accepted, or reservations, binding or non-binding, can be made in New York until an offering plan is filed with the New York State Department of Law.

A HOME AS PRIVATE AS YOUR TRAVELS Introducing Palazzo Del Sol . 47 new waterfront condominium residences on celebrated Fisher Island. A haven of privacy and exclusivity, minutes from South Beach and the cultural attractions of Miami, with superbly curated building amenities and 6-star white-glove services.

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H OW D O YO U KU KU I ‘ U L A?

You’ve never stayed anywhere quite like the Lodge at Kukui‘ula, on the sunny south shore of Kaua‘i, Hawai‘i. Our island-style homes give your family the luxury of privacy and togetherness. Walk to the spa and the TomWeiskopf golf course. Pick flowers at the farm and discover the island’s best restaurants in our shopping village. Follow our Island Pursuits team to every Kaua‘i adventure. And feel the aloha of a private club community as down to earth as it is sophisticated. We can’t wait to welcome you.

L OD G E AT KUKU I U L A . COM 8 5 5 . 9 3 9 . 3 1 3 1

2 - O R 3 - B E D R O O M C O T T A G E S F R O M $ 1 , 2 0 0 / N I G H T 4 - B E D R O O M C L U B V I L L A S F R O M $ 1 , 8 0 0 / N I G H T

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The all-new GLE has been put through some of the most rigorous testing in the industry. It has the ability to brake by itself, park itself and help you steer. The Intelligent Drive system will warn you of danger from almost any angle, vehicles in your blind spot and stopped traffic up ahead. The GLE is more than a luxury SUV— it’s one of the most intelligent SUVs we’ve ever made. Visit MBUSA.com/GLE

The best or nothing.

2016 GLE350 4 MATIC ® shown in Palladium Silver metallic paint with optional equipment. Vehicle will not stop itself in every condition. Please refer to the operating manual for details on Brake Assist safety systems. Vehicle available late summer 2015. ©2015 Mercedes-Benz USA, LLC For more information, call 1-800-FOR-MERCEDES, or visit MBUSA.com.

elite traveler SEPT/OCT2015 ISSUE 5 19

WELCOME THE PRIVATE JET LIFESTYLE MAGAZINE

Can you buy style? Is it a matter of “you’ve either got it or you haven’t”? Or, if you can’t buy it, is it because you just don’t know where to shop? This is our style issue and we’ve been from Victorian London to stylish Stockholm, via Argentina. The ambition, wherever we go, is the same. To seek out the insider tips and tricks that help make Elite Traveler readers the most well-versed and discerning travelers. But this time it also raised some questions about which city is the world’s most stylish? For this issue we visited London for our cover shoot, picking up on fashion’s new Victorian moment. Stockholm’s Ingrid Williams makes a case for the design secrets of her home city, while there are also ideas on how to enjoy a weekend in the ever-stylish Buenos Aires (with advice on how to enjoy a longer stay in the rest of Argentina). For those who prefer their cities to come with a dash of adventure and mystery, we have a riveting off-road drive through Morocco to the magical city of Marrakech and photographer Christopher Wise shares some snaps of his adopted home, Bangkok. Finally, few cities beat New York for fun, so in this issue we list its best hotel suites. We’ve enjoyed tracking all this down, and hope you enjoy the results. If you have a favorite city, email us at editorial@elitetraveler.com

Elite Traveler tip One signature of the Elite Traveler editorial has been our tireless pursuit of the inside intelligence that makes life easier. Watch out for this symbol throughout.

@ELITETRAVELER AROUND THE WORLD Meet the Elite Traveler team. This month we’ve met up with an elBulli- trained chef, visited two of Elite Traveler’s top 100 restaurants, jetted to London for a photoshoot

The team sample the southern fare at Husk, one of our top restaurants

Kristen Shirley, luxury editor, tries on this showstopper of a cuff at jewelers Jacob & Co

Gerard Bellver, chef at Biko (second left) with the Elite Traveler team in Mexico

Photographers Annelaure Pothin and Krisztina Gat on location at the cover fashion shoot in London

and modeled jewelry. All in a day’s work… Marc Jacobs dress and gloves, De Beers diamond earrings

CONTENTS SEPTEMBER/OC OBER 2015, VOLUME 15, ISSUE 5

DISCOVER

33 Object of desire FUTURISTIC LOUDSPEAKER 34 Travel AFRICAN RETREATS , DOWNTOWN L.A., CHENGDU’S NEW TEMPLE 36 Motoring MASERATI MEETS ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA, DANY BAHAR’S ARES 38 Watches ROGER DUBUIS’ HOMMAGE, MCT, PATEK PHILIPPE, FRANCK MULLER 45 Men’s style THE NEW TURTLENECK, JEFFREY RÜDES' NEW LINE 49 Women’s style FALL TRENDS: GLITTER, GEOMETRIC, METALLICS, FUR AND VELVET 54 Jewelry EXQUISITE PEARLS, MUST-HAVE OPALS 58 Aviation SLICK JET INTERIORS, VISTAJET NEWS, GULFSTREAM G650ER 60 Food & drink BORDEAUX WINERY, RITZ PARIS, FINE DINING AT CHRISTIE'S 62 Design THE ARCHITECTURE WORLD'S OSCARS INFLUENCE 68 Gerard Basset THE MAKING OF CALIFORNIA’S FINEST WINE 69 Jonathan Bues WHY SWISS WATCHMAKERS ARE TAKING MOVEMENTS IN-HOUSE 70 Ashley W. Simpson WHY THE NEW ROMANTIC LOOK IS THIS SEASON’S BIG TREND 72 Ivanka Trump ON REDRESSING THE GENDER IMBALANCE IN BOARDROOMS

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CONTENTS

elite traveler SEPT/OCT 2015 ISSUE 5 22

INSPIRE

76 Most stylish 10 MOST DESIGN-SAVVY VILLAS AROUND THE WORLD 88 Fashion COVER STORY: THE NEW ROMANTICS 100 San Sebastián THE BASQUE COUNTRY'S FOOD REVOLUTION 106 Marrakech road trip OFF-ROAD ADVENTURE THROUGH THE ATLAS MOUNTAINS EXPLORE 114 Total guide STOCKHOLM: WHERE TO EAT, SLEEP, DRINK AND SHOP 122 Itinerary ARGENTINA: HOW TO SPEND A WEEKEND, WEEK OR LONGER 130 Life through a lens BANGKOK: PHOTOGRAPHER CHRIS WISE ON HIS FAVORITE SPOTS 134 Top suites NEW YORK: OUR PICK OF THE ABSOLUTE BEST SUITES IN THE CITY 144 Flight of fancy JAMAICA: PADDLEBOARDING AT NIGHT

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106

Martinewears a Fendi dress and Graff Diamonds earrings and ring. Page 88

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CONTRIBUTORS THIS ISSUE’S GLOBE-TROTTING TEAM

London 1 Photographer

Massachusetts 2 Journalist Elle Decoration ’s Emma Love has seen her fair share of vacation villas. For this issue she’s picked the most design-savvy ones (p76). Her favorite? Vineyard Retreat, a stylish

Annelaure is one half of duo AL&K who shot the new romantics shoot (p88) at Batty Langley’s hotel – in the suite with a secret bathroom behind the bookcase. She has worked with the likes of Patrick Demarchelier. New York 3 Businesswoman Ivanka Trump, daughter of Donald Trump and executive vice president of development and acquisitions at the Trump Organization, talks women in business (p72).

1

4

converted church in Martha’s Vineyard.

5

Marrakech 4 Journalist Ski junkie, Financial Times contributor and roving travel writer Minty Clinch goes on a hair-raising drive through the Atlas Mountains (p106). She may be a retiree but Minty held her own against the testosterone-fueled car buffs competing with her.

Bangkok 5 Photographer

Chris Wise left behind the wilds of Vermont for city life in Bangkok in 2001. Now, 14 years on, having contributed to Forbes, Monocle and The New York Times and having made the city his home, he shares his favorite places (p130).

2

3

Argentina 6 Writer Chris Moss lived in Argentina for 10 years

before he settled in Devon , UK. He takes time out from writing for The Guardian and Condé Nast Traveller UK to pen this guide (p122) to the “breathtakingly beautiful, dizzyingly big” nation he called home.

6

D E S I G N POR T R A I T.

Michel, seat system designed by Antonio Citterio. www.bebitalia.com

B&B Italia Stores New York: 150 E. 58th Street 10155 - Soho: 138 Greene Street 10012 - Coming soon: 135 Madison Avenue 10016 Other B&B Italia Stores: Dallas - Houston - Los Angeles - Miami - San Francisco - Seattle - Sun Valley - Washington DC - Mexico City - Belo Horizonte Please call 1 800 872 1697 - info@bbitaliausa.com - www.bebitalia.com Time_Less Program: select B&B Italia pieces now in stock: www.bbitaliatimeless.com

THE PRIVATE JET LIFESTYLE MAGAZINE elite traveler

ELITE TRAVELER MEDIA GROUP Executive Vice President, Publisher Norman M. Miller Vice President, Associate Publisher, Marketing & Publishing Operations Lorraine Chu Vice President, Associate Publisher, Multimedia Greg Licciardi elitetraveler.com

PROGRESSIVE CUSTOMER PUBLISHING Managing Director Dan Davey Group Account Director Sam Gallagher progressivecp.com

PROGRESSIVE CUSTOMER PUBLISHING Editor-in-Chief Richard Cree Managing Editor Laura Powell Consultant Editor Emily Mathieson Chief Sub-Editor Jacquetta Picton Design Director Ewan Buck Consultant Art Director Finnie Finn Art Director Ian Hart Senior Designer Penny Clements Picture Editor John Kilpatrick Production Director Angela Derbyshire

ELITE LUXURY PUBLISHING MARKETING/PRODUCTION/CIRCULATION VP/Associate Publisher, Marketing & Publishing Operations Lorraine Chu +1 646 430 7908 lorraine.chu@elitetraveler.com Senior Director of Distribution & Operations Kat Czarnecki +1 646 430 7907 kat.czarnecki@elitetraveler.com Marketing & Events Director Christina Castro +1 646 430 7909 christina.castro@elitetraveler.com Senior Marketing Coordinator Jessica Moreira +1 646 439 1030 jessica.moreira@elitetraveler.com Sales & Marketing Coordinator Olivia Cuccaro + 1 646 430 7903 olivia.cuccaro@elitetraveler.com

ELITE LUXURY PUBLISHING Luxury Editor Kristen Shirley +1 646 430 7911 kristen.shirley@elitetraveler.com

WEB EDITOR Zahra Al-Kateb

CONTRIBUTORS Gerard Basset, Jacqui Black, Jonathan Bues, Minty Clinch, Francesca Cotton, Krisztina Gat, Lyndon Hayes, Emma Love, Chris Moss,

Circulation Director Randy Silverman +1 917 626 9799 randy.silverman@elitetraveler.com

Annelaure Pothin, Paul Richardson, Ashley Simpson, Ingrid Williams

For editorial inquiries, please contact editorial@elitetraveler.com

ELITE LUXURY PUBLISHING, INC. 708 Third Avenue, New York, New York 10017 elitetraveler.com

SUBSCRIPTION INQUIRIES Elite Traveler is the only BPA-audited publication for private jet travelers. With distribution in over 100 countries aboard private jets and in private jet terminals, each issue is read by over 630,000 ultra-affluent consumers with a median household income of $2.28m*. To make sure you never miss an issue, subscribe to Elite Traveler , the private jet lifestyle magazine. $50 for a single issue. For subscription details, visit elitetraveler.com/subscribe To keep up-to-date with the latest private jet lifestyle news, sign-up for weekly email round-up Elite Traveler Update at elitetraveler.com *Source: Prince & Associates

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ELITE TRAVELER MEDIA GROUP Executive Vice President, Publisher Norman M. Miller Vice President, Associate Publisher, Marketing & Publishing Operations Lorraine Chu Vice President, Associate Publisher, Multimedia Greg Licciardi elitetraveler.com

NORTHEASTERN US/MID-ATLANTIC/ MIDWEST/EASTERN CANADA VP/Associate Publisher Multimedia Greg Licciardi +1 646 439 1028 greg.licciardi@elitetraveler.com Director (jewelry, watches, beauty) Heather Hanson +1 646 430 7918 heather.hanson@elitetraveler.com

SWITZERLAND Media Representative Susanne Samuelsson +41 22 960 0926 ssamuelsson@bluewin.ch MEXICO Director General Jerry Landress +1 719 495 2145 Mexico: +52 624 14 21650 jrlandress@earthlink.net Marketing Director Armando Figaredo +52 624 14 22640 ccabos@prodigy.net.mx ITALY Media Representative Ferruccio Silvera +39 022 846716 ferruccio@silvera.it INDIA Media Representative Vimal Anand +91 11 40581544 vimal@gmnindia.com THAILAND/LAOS/CAMBODIA/MYANMAR Media Representative Laurent Malespine +66 2652 0889 laurent@dontblink.co.th

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ASHOKA ® and the ASHOKA CUT CONFIGURATION TM are trademarks of William Goldberg, Inc. The diamond cut is covered by U.S. Design Patent #D418444.

THE DIAMOND OF LEGEND.

A S H O KA D I A M O N D.C O M

31 elite traveler SEPT/OCT 2015 ISSUE 5

DISCOVER WATCHES / MOTORING / JETS / FASHION / JEWELRY / TRAVEL / FOOD & DRINK / DESIGN

Our edit of the most stylish fashion, the slickest jets, the hottest new restaurants and the hippest hotels

Museum with a view (p64) Messner Mountain Museum

Photo Harald Wisthaler

New Retro

www com ABU DHAB I • BA L HAR BOUR • CANNE S • CAP R I • COURCHEVE L • DUBA I • GENEVA • GS TAAD • KUWA I T LONDON • MOSCOW • NEW YORK • PAR I S • PORTO CE RVO • ROME • S T BARTHE L EMY • S T MOR I T Z • degrisogono •

DISCOVER

elite traveler SEPT/OCT 2015 ISSUE 5 33

Object of desire

Heavy metal

It may look like a giant honeycomb. Or a modern artwork. But our object of desire is, in fact, a loudspeaker, curiously named Ironic. It was designed by little-known, Pennsylvania-based company Oswalds Mill Audio (OMA) that makes the kinds of loudspeakers and amplifiers that could sit in an art gallery just as comfortably as in your living room. Only 10 have been cast, each from an individual 3D printed mold, and it is made of iron. Hence the name. From $95,000, oswaldsmillaudio.com

Words Laura Powell. Photos Cynthia van Elk

DISCOVER

Travel

1 Limalimo

2 Benguerra

3 Namiri

Take a walk on the wild side

As lesser-known parts of Africa open up to luxury tourism, new hotels are injecting style and glamour into emerging regions of the continent 1 Stylish ecolodge Limalimo opens this month in the Simien Mountains, Ethiopia. The resort has 14 elegant rooms that look onto the Unesco World Heritage-listed national park, a bar with awe-inspiring views of the lowlands, hammocks strung lazily between acacia trees and some very unusual visitors – troupes of local Gelada monkeys (pictured) that pass through. limalimolodge.com 2 The beautifully secluded Benguerra Island resort, overlooking the Mozambique coast and sheltered by a pine forest, has reopened after a $5.5m renovation. The colonial bandas are styled with a nod to the region’s Portuguese heritage and the fresh seafood is exquisite. Guests are assigned a Mozambican butler and private dinners can be arranged on the beach or in your cabana. andbeyond.com/benguerra-island 3 Serengeti National Park isn't exactly untapped by tourists but the new Namiri Plains has reopened in a remote eastern area of the park, after being closed for 20 years to create a cheetah haven. There are no other lodges, so guests at the semi-permanent eight-tent camp can view the migration of wildebeest and zebra, which starts in October, totally undisturbed by others. namiriplains.asiliaafrica.com

elite traveler SEPT/OCT 2015 ISSUE 5 35

The palatial lobby of the theater at the Ace Hotel

CHENGDU THE LEGACY OF EMPERORS

The curved-roof temples and timber-and-brick columned pavilions of Chengdu are a relic of the 18th and 19th centuries when the Qing Dynasty emperors left their mark on the city. Nowhere is this architectural style clearer than in Temple House, an upscale hotel for the new breed of traveler and the latest project from Swire Hotels – the group behind the celebrated Opposite House in Beijing and Upper House in Hong Kong. The 100-room hotel sits next door to the famous Daci Temple and references its history with simple architecture.

THE WHOLE HOTEL ST MORITZ The 60-suite Carlton Hotel in St Moritz will be available for exclusive use this ski season. Which means you can have the terrace, the Michelin- starred restaurant and the three-floor spa all to yourself. DOWNTOWN REVIVAL IN LOS ANGELES Ten years ago, downtown Los Angeles wasn’t the kind of place to garner many column inches. Now, thanks to world-class art developments, upscale hotels and a smattering of high-end restaurants, it’s emerging as a vibrant alternative to the city’s beach hoods – and a home to a new creative class. Eli Broad will open his long-awaited Broad Art Museum on September 20, which will feature a 105-foot escalator to reach its numerous galleries. Plus the Museum of Contemporary Art, the forthcoming Hauser &Wirth gallery (due early next year) and this month’s arrival of a

West Coast outpost of the NYC Maccarone Gallery will add weight to the region's art scene. The Ace Hotel has breathed new life to the area around South Broadway and West 9th Street with its hipster attitude and sceney restaurant. And, undeterred by some of the most expensive retail space in the city, exclusive fashion retailers such as APC and Acne Studios have moved in. The hottest restaurant (for now, at least) is Bestia. After hours, cinematic bars such as The Varnish or The Edison (in a renovated power plant) are the places to while the night away in this newly grooving district. acehotel.com/losangeles

Acne Studios, Downtown L.A.

The Broad Art Museum

Simple, pale-colored rooms have natural bamboo and plain wooden screens. Meanwhile the three restaurants are a study in modern elegance. Book the Penthouse for its terrace, outdoor Jacuzzi and views across the city; beyond are the jungle habitats of the region’s other most famous resident – the giant panda. From $10,760 a night thetemplehousehotel.com

From $97,500 a night carlton-stmoritz.ch

Words Emily Mathieson. Pictures Iwan Baan, Jonathan Hood, Michael Weber Photography

DISCOVER

Classic cars If you’re looking for a classic car investment, head to the 1970s and 1980s. Star performer in 2015 is a Lamborghini Countach LP400S Coupe, up 45% from $328,257 to $465,485, and a Ferrari 308 GTB Vetroresina Berlinetta up 43% to $175,616.

Motoring

MASERATI’S ITALIAN JOB

Maggiore, explaining why this project marks the start of an innovative business partnership (and not a marriage of brand convenience). There was much mutual brand love in the air as the two talked of years of testing to develop silk tough enough for the wear and tear faced by a car seat. So what of the 2016 Quattroporte? This upgrade of the sixth incarnation, which arrived in 2013, comes with engines tweaked to be cleaner and more efficient. The top-of-the-range GTS boasts a thumping 530bhp, 3.8-litre twin-turbo V8 (from Ferrari), which delivers more sporty agility on winding Italian mountain roads than a car with this much girth has the right to. Inside the cabin, there is plenty of new tech, from a premium 15-speaker Bowers & Wilkins surround sound stereo (with a function called Clari-Fi, which takes compressed audio files and plays back music at near-studio quality) to better phone connectivity (with voice control via Siri) and a touch screen that controls much of the car, but which flummoxed me. Above all, in cars with the Zegna option, there is lots of sober grey silk. Each car uses roughly 13 yards of silk – four times the amount needed for a Zegna two-piece suit. And here it all starts to sound so very Italian – and it becomes clear why the world needs Maserati.

Does the world need Maserati? The path to motoring glory is paved with national stereotypes. It may be contentious in an age of global ownership when Lamborghini, Audi and Bentley share more parts than anyone likes to admit, but nationality matters. We want the Brits to offer walnut heritage and the Germans to create meisterwerks of safe, efficient driving. We need Americans to make big, brash muscle machines and the Japanese to do what they do, with an occasional curveball. As for Italians? They bring flair and style. And while Alfa Romeo has made two nice cars in recent years, Ferrari and Lamborghini have this covered. Which leaves Maserati. In recent years, it has focused on sporty-but-practical end of the market notably big, sports sedans. While it can lay claim to having created the blueprint for these with the 1963 Quattroporte, this doesn’t fit the national stereotype. So hats off to the German running the company at the moment. He’s recognized the value of collaboration with ever-so-Italian fashion house Ermenegildo Zegna. And while major new models aren’t due until 2017 (apart from the admittedly more Italian Alfieri), the 2016 range offers seats made from 100% silk with a personalized tailor’s label on back of the driver’s sunshade. It’s a masterpiece of “nationality marketing” and it made perfect sense at the launch, as the two immaculate CEOs sat in the Grand Hotel de Iles Borromees’s Hemingway Suite on the banks of Lago

Quattroporte GTS with Zegna interior 0-60mph: 4.7 seconds Top speed: 191 mph Price: $150,000

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elite traveler SEPT/OCT 2015 ISSUE 5

TAKE THREE/// SUPER LUXURY SUVS

1 BENTLEY BENTAYGA One of the most anticipated Bentleys for a generation, the Bentayga will be “as at home in Kensington as it is in the Atacama Desert”. Expect it to be big, bold and enormous fun. Powered by a 550bhp W12, it will accelerate from 0-60mph in about five seconds.

Aston Martin’s Rapide, as designed by Ares (above); Dany Bahar (right)

2 LAMBORGHINI URUS Whether Lamborghini today represents a marriage of inconvenience between German and Italian engineering, or the sublime blend of looks and mechanics, it was inevitable that it would enter the SUV fray. The Urus boasts classic Lambo looks with power and performance.

WHERE THE SHEIKS PIMP THEIR RIDES

Dany Bahar is a man on a mission. And for a man famous within the motoring world as an obsessive brand builder – he’s worked his magic on Red Bull, Ferrari and Lotus – that mission is strangely unconcerned with branding. His new venture, Ares, offers what he calls: “A new process, a new manufacture that is only limited by customers’ courage and the limits of time and money.” For the time being that means taking existing cars and doing anything from adding a few personal touches to completely redesigning and rebuilding the bodywork. For example, if you want that mythical Rolls Royce SUV the firm has talked about but never produced, then buy a Ghost, send it to Ares and they’ll turn it into an SUV. “In every sector and all areas of consumer activity people want personalization. In private jet travel, they want the interiors of their jet designed to their taste. They also want something unique to them that no one else has. The exception is cars, when customers have to accept the limits set by manufacturers. You can define the leather, stitching or piping, but you can’t change the angle of the dashboard, or replace cheap wood veneers with Swarovski crystals.” Currently doing big business in the Middle East, China and Russia, a second showroom opened in London last month – although it is unclear what purpose the showrooms fulfill. The US market is in Bahar’s sights. “The US has a huge potential and a new partnership is in the offing for 2016.” While cars are currently the main focus, Bahar talks excitedly about applying the techniques and crafts at Ares to yachts and jets. He adds that an Italian entrepreneur wants something special done to his helicopter later in the year. He may not be building a brand, but Bahar has just as much ambition as ever. ares-performance.com

3 ASTON MARTIN DBX A shock reveal at the last Geneva motor show, the DBX is allegedly on its way into production. With electric motors, fly-by-wire steering and a KERS regenerative braking system, it would mark a radical departure for Aston, if the production car matched the concept.

Ermenegildo Zegna interior of theMaserati Quattroporte

Words Richard Cree. Photos Lorenzo Marcinno, REX Shutterstock

DISCOVER

elite traveler SEPT/OCT 2015 ISSUE 5 38

Watches

Roger Dubuis announced the Hommage collection to pay tribute to co-founder Mr Dubuis' contributions to horology – and to mark the brand’s 20th anniversary. The Hommage Minute Repeater Tourbillon Automatic (pictured above) was issued in a limited edition of 20. Dubuis also announced the Hommage Millésime collection – each year it will restore antique movement blanks in a unique timepiece and achieve the prestigious Poinçon de Genève. Pieces will include a perpetual calendar and a minute repeater, tourbillon or chronograph. The first is a pocket watch (right) with a late 19th century ébauche donated by Mr Dubuis. Updating it to 21st century Poinçon de Genève standards took the skill of 20 experts. It is exclusive to the Geneva boutique. Turning to the future, Dubuis has introduced a new jewelry timepiece, the Excalibur Star of Infinity. Dubuis connoisseurs will recognize the signature star motif and the dual tourbillons. The watch is set with 312 baguette-cut diamonds and limited to 28 pieces. Prices on request. rogerdubuis.com Anniversary tribute at Roger Dubuis

Words Kristen Shirley

DISCOVER

elite traveler SEPT/OCT 2015 ISSUE 5 40

Technical look from MCT's second collection – the Frequential One

BRAND PROFILE/// FRANCK MULLER

Innovative manufacture d'horlogerie Franck Muller has revolutionized traditional elements of watchmaking and is utterly dedicated to research and development. Founded in 1991, the house began with the Cintrée Curvex case and has since achieved more than 53 patents. The watches are split into three groups. Grand Complications are generally world firsts; High Complications include tourbillons, multiple time zones and innovative materials; while Playful Complications perhaps best represent the exuberant spirit of the house with their wild colors and magical intricacies. franckmuller.com

1 GRAND COMPLICATIONS

It took six months to solve the issue of the diamonds’ weight affecting the delicate tourbillon on the Giga Tourbillon. The result is a grand complication, with a 56 diamonds set using the innovative grain technique directly on the tourbillon cage. $275,000 This year marks the 20th anniversary of the Master Banker watch. The watch shows three time zones, allowing the wearer to see the times at his three stock markets of choice. $32,000 3 PLAYFUL COMPLICATIONS Fancy a game of roulette? A game is only a few, quick turns away on this watch, part of the Vegas collection. Press the button on the crown and the central needle will stop on a random number along the roulette wheel on the dial. $67,800 2 HIGH COMPLICATIONS

NEWMOVES MCT has introduced its second watch collection, the Frequential One, which includes a new movement, the MCT-F1.0. The minute and hour hands on the technical-looking Frequential One F110 orbit a centrally suspended balance wheel. At 42mm, it is slightly smaller than the Sequential collections. The manual watch is made of titanium, has a black alligator strap and a power reserve indicator. $43,500 mctwatches.com

THIN AND THINNER

If this isn’t the world’s thinnest mechanical watch, it’s a close call. Either way, the new Master Ultra Thin Squelette by Jaeger-LeCoultre demands closer inspection. There are two enameled versions and two mother of pearl and diamond versions, each limited to 100 pieces. The enamel versions' clock is 3.6mm, while the gem-set measures 4.7mm. From $58,500 jaeger-lecoultre.com

HONOUR • POWER • PRIDE

stefanoricci.com

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MEET ME IN MONACO

Only Watch brings its sixth annual charity auction to Geneva on November 7. Blancpain, Christophe Claret, De Grisogono, Harry Winston, Jacob & Co, Vacheron Constantin and Van Cleef & Arpels are among the 44 brands that will donate unique and exclusive watches to benefit the Monaco Association Against Muscular Dystrophy with the patronage of HSH Prince Albert II.

The talk of Baselworld this year, the new Ref 5370P from Patek Philippe combines two of the more challenging aspects of watchmaking: enamel dials and a split-second, or rattrapante , chronograph. The black enamel dial looks sleek and those in the know will also recognize that it is a difficult process to make and decorate. It is so special, in fact, that émail (enamel in French) is written on the dial as a badge of honor. Keeping with the traditional look of an enamel dial, it is decorated with classic white gold Breguet numbers and a printed 1,000-meter tachymeter scale. This is the first time the in-house CHR 29-535 PS movement has been available without the perpetual calendar, allowing the wearer to focus purely on time. Style and substance

Christophe Claret Espoir & Paix

De Grisogono New Retro

The watches will be available to view in person at the Monaco Yacht Show

$249,500 patek.com

Sea legs

Omega has reinvigorated the Seamaster 300 whilst respecting its iconic look. The blue enamel dial has 18-karat rose gold hands coated with vintage Super- LumiNova and a new in-house movement, the Master Co-Axial 8401. Not just for show, the Seamaster 300 remains true to its roots as a watch for divers. The anti-magnetic technology in the movement can resist magnetic fields greater than 15,000 gauss and it is water resistant up to 1,000 feet. There are also some thoughtful touches – the case and bracelet are brushed and polished platinum, for example. Only 357 pieces of the platinum bracelet model will be made, a nod to the 300 name and the year of its release in 1957. $66,000 omegawatches.com

Omega Seamaster 300 Master Co-Axial

Head to Monaco a few days early to see the watches in person. They will be shown at the Monaco Yacht Show from September 23-26 before they begin a world tour in advance of the auction by Phillips, in association with Bacs & Russo. Or to view these amazing pieces up close, visit elitetraveler.com onlywatch.com

Jacob & Co Epic SF 24

Blancpain Villeret Chinese Calendar

Introducing the Challenger 350 * Ultimate cabin experience for over 7 hours non-stop

+1-800-79FLYVJ americas@vistajet.com www.vistajet.com Aircraft by

* VistaJet owned and U.S. registered aircraft are operated by to be appointed duly licensed air carriers

DERRICK GAZ

United States and Canada - FitzHenry Consulting at (561) 212-6812 International - Louis Moinet, Switzerland at +41 32 753 68 14, info@louismoinet.com

www.louismoinet.com

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elite traveler SEPT/OCT 2015 ISSUE 5 45

Men’s style

Style icon Actor Steve McQueen, known as the King of Cool, rocked the turtleneck in the 1960s and 1970s

Ermenegildo Zegna Couture

Hermès

Billionaire Italian Couture

Berluti

Stefano Ricci

Stick out your turtlenecks

WEAR IT WITH…

Designers must have had last year’s harsh winter on their minds when designing their fall collections. Turtlenecks were out in force, adding warmth and sophistication – and channeling movie icon Steve McQueen. Stefano Pilati presented his uniform for an eco-leader at Ermenegildo Zegna Couture in Milan. Many looks featured original Harris tweeds, which are sustainably produced and have been hand-woven in Scotland for centuries. Here, the traditional Harris Tweed single-breasted jacket is paired with a dark green cashmere turtleneck and burgundy trousers. At Hermès, designer Véronique Nichanian covered model’s necks, either with a turtleneck or a jauntily tied scarf. Turtlenecks were paired with pinstriped coats, sweaters, bomber jackets and even a crocodile sweatshirt. Meanwhile Billionaire Italian Couture’s fall collection featured rich fabrics, fur and color. The tailored looks and suiting were strong as usual, but the more casual looks showed a softer side from the label. Seen here paired with jeans, adding a quarter zip makes the turtleneck more versatile. Florence-based Stefano Ricci may be best known for his impeccable craftsmanship in bespoke suiting, but his ready-to-wear line is not to be missed. Ricci is an expert with crocodile and using rich materials such as cashmere; this line is the ultimate in luxury. His cashmere cable knit turtleneck adds a relaxed touch to the crocodile jacket with pekan fur collar. And, finally, while celebrating Berluti’s 120th anniversary this year, designer Alessandro Sartori was also focused on the future. His collection included deconstructed jackets and innovative fabrics – including felted jersey on classic silhouettes. He showed many turtlenecks ranging from thick knits perfect for skiing to whisper light cashmere adding the ultimate in city sophistication.

Berluti Andy loafer, $2,220, berluti.com

Hermès bag, $7,900, hermes.com

Billionaire Italian Couture slipper, $1,195, billionaire couture.com Stefano Ricci briefcase, price on request, stefanoricci.com

Words Kristen Shirley

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Loro Piana Polar Parka, $1,495

STORM STYLE

Woolrich, the USA’s longest running outdoor-clothing company, celebrates its 185th anniversary this year. A favorite piece is the Mackinaw Long Parka, which uses the 100% Italian wool Loro Piana Storm System fabric and has a detachable curly lamb fur collar. It can be difficult to find a sophisticated parka that can be worn in the city to business meetings, but this certainly fits the bill. The fabric feels soft, but is fully water-resistant. woolrich.com

Jeffrey Rüdes single-breasted long coat

Rüdes’ new classics Jeffrey Rüdes, one of the men behind the premium denim craze of the early 2000s and the co-founder and former CEO of J Brand, is back with a new, eponymous menswear line, filled with luxurious basics. While this, in itself, is not novel, his approach certainly is. Splitting the company between offices in L.A. and an atelier in Italy, the collection follows a ‘buy now, wear now’ ethos and can only be purchased at the SoHo boutique and on the website. Rüdes has also decided to limit the number of silhouettes in each item and keep each item available year round. New fabrics and colors will be released each month, but there is no more guesswork – a customer can find his perfect shape and update it every season. Instead of focusing on jeans, as one might expect, Rüdes has chosen jackets as the cornerstone of the collection. There is a strong emphasis on fit and classic styles, each with an expert finish. Standouts include the signature single-breasted long coat and a timeless short leather jacket in a supple lambskin nappa. Single-breasted long coat $2,800, leather jacket $2,400, jeffreyrudes.com

LoroPianaMackinaw LongParka, $1,395

From top Jeffrey Rüdes; signature leather jacket

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Women’s style

SHINE BRIGHT Glitter and shimmer were impossible to ignore at this seasons’s shows – yes, runways were all about sparkle Whether lamé, lurex, sequins or a shiny jacquard, designers lit up their shows this season with glittering fabrics. The always-elegant Giambattista Valli incorporated sequins throughout his fall collection: he trimmed dresses and knits, elevated outerwear and, for the truly brave, filled out a checkerboard pattern on a pair of flared trousers. Giant blocks of sequins also formed multicolored stripes on his beautiful coats. The 1980s were out in full force on the Rodarte

runway, which ended with a daring series of striped evening dresses that would be at home in a Dynasty remake. Earlier in the show, feathers adorned glittery silver dresses and multicolored sequins paired with beaded skirts and hot pants. In London, Christopher Kane had one of the brightest, but still wearable, shows of the season, presenting lamé, lurex and iridescent velvets. One of the favorite looks was a green lurex

ONE FOR YOUR BUCKET LIST

If you weren’t prescient enough to pre-order one in February with the innovative RunwayMade to Order service, get ready to run to your nearest Burberry store now. Christopher Bailey introduced a completely new bag shape during the Burberry Prorsum runway show – the structured bucket bag. It is available in a range of colors and fabrics, including suede and pony hair. While the maroon suede fringe version skews boho and 1970s, the leopard-print pony hair version is ultra modern. $2,650 burberry.com

knit and green lamé knee-length accordion pleat skirt, accessorized with shiny pink shoes and bag. But our highlight of the season was Erdem who injected lurex into brocades and reversed his jacquard fabric to reveal a shiny underside. At first glance, the opening look was a simple, prim pink dress paired with Nicholas Kirkwood black riding boots. Upon closer inspection, the cut outs on the bodice and their frayed edges appeared to be ripped at the seams and added to the feeling of the faded glamour of his fictional muse from 1950s Paris. giambattistavalli.com rodarte.net christopherkane.com erdem.com

Erdem

Giambattista Valli

Rodarte

Christopher Kane

Words Kristen Shirley

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TAKE THREE/// METALLIC BAGS

Show your true metal with bags that will make any outfit shine

1 DOLCE &GABBANA Not for the wallflower, Dolce &Gabbana’s exuberant collections are full of life. This gold box bag exudes a Sicilian sense of la dolce vita that is their signature look. $4,995 dolcegabbana.it

Max Mara Atelier

Fashion director Laura Lusuardi has been with Max Mara for more than 50 years so she knows a thing or two about coats. Lusuardi used all of her experience and knowledge to develop her new coat collection, Max Mara Atelier. Handmade by craftsmen in Italy, collection of 13 pieces includes chic capes, voluminous coats inspired by the archives and jewel-toned fur accents. It is has limited distribution in America – New York, Chicago and Los Angeles. The red alpaca coat with fox collar ($3,990) makes a strong statement, while the camel-colored, double-face cashmere coat with fox paneling ($6,090) updates a classic Max Mara camel coat with the rich and unexpected details on the front. Worn with the wool crepe 1970s-leg pant, the monochrome look is anything but boring. maxmara.com

2 BULGARI Elegant and timeless, wear the Serpenti Forever shoulder bag in silver python with everything from jeans to a cocktail dress. $4,900 bulgari.com

3 LEE SAVAGE Known for her architectural and minimalist pieces, Savage studied the work of artists Sol LeWitt and Donald Judd when designing her collection. The light gold Cross Stack clutch is perfect for any evening out. $1,850 barneys.com

SADDLE UP Riding boots were paired with everything on the runways, from leggings to dresses. Kiton’s rich brown calfskin boots designed by Diego Dolcini will easily take you through the season.

$1,245 kiton.it

Regent Col lect ion

212.463.8898 WWW.BACKESANDSTRAUSS.COM

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1. Fendi 2. Devi Kroell , $4,300 devikroell.com 3. Olgana Paris , $1,040 barneys.com

1. Sonia Rykiel 2. Dries Van Noten , $735 barneys.com 3. Edie Parker , $1,595 edie-parker.com

1. Prada 2. Valentino Garavani , $2,375 valentino.com 3. Aperlaï , $925 caprettoshoes.com

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Colorblocking, geometric prints and trippy patterns are a fun evolution of the recent mod trend. Miuccia Prada sent a parade of pastel colored looks down her runway along with molecular print covered cropped jackets, skirts and coats. Matching pant- and skirt-suits conjured up a retro Pan Am flight attendant look. This Valentino Garavani elegant pink and purple clutch is more graphic, thanks to the black hardware and strap. For fall, Aperlaï’s best-selling Geisha Mondrian shoe comes in pink and yellow suede with black and white trim. 1 Geometric

Velvet

Designers worked all sorts of magic with fur this season: fur trim, mixed materials, rich colors and some convincing faux versions at Stella McCartney. A major trend – light colors becoming a fresh way to wear fur. Fendi’s long fox coat will certainly keep you warm everywhere from New York to Gstaad. Even before winter hits, these brown satin and mink sandals from new label Olgana Paris are a subtle way to add a touch of fur to any look. Devi Kroell is a master of exotics and this mink envelope bag is the absolute perfect shade of winter white.

One of fall’s richer fabrics, velvets were seen on and off the runway in every city. New York-based label Edie Parker, known for playful acrylic clutches, has incorporated new shapes and materials, including the velvet bag with embroidered gold stars. Dries Van Noten showed a veritable rainbow of ankle boots in his show, pairing them with everything from a cocktail dress to wide leg trousers. And Sonia Rykiel’s new designer Julie de Libran showed several velvet looks. We love the deep blue velvet jumpsuit, which is unexpected and seriously sexy.

PEACE OF MIND STARTS WITH PROOF OF QUALITY.

C arat Weight 1.53

C olor Grade E

C larity Grade VS1

C ut Grade

Excellent

For over 80 years, GIA has brought clarity and global standards to gem evaluation. A GIA report means expert, independent verification from the creator of the 4Cs and the world’s most widely recognized gem authority. Look for GIA-graded diamonds and jewelers who offer them. www.4cs.gia.edu

CARLSBAD ANTWERP BANGKOK DUBAI GABORONE HONG KONG JOHANNESBURG LONDON MUMBAI NEW YORK OSAKA RAMAT GAN SEOUL TAIPEI TOKYO

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Jewelry

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Pearls have moved beyond their twinset association and are fast becoming a must-have accessory. Creative designers have raised the bar with innovative and modern takes using baroque and colored pearls, cool new shapes and architectural forms. Passion for pearls

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1. Mastoloni cuff , $1,735, mastoloni.com 2. Utopia bracelet , $28,500, utopia-jewels.com 3. Delfina Delettrez ring , $6,750, matchesfashion.com 4. AS29 earrings , $10,600, as29.com 5. Yvel ring , $8,600, yvel.com 6. The One & Only One necklace , price on request, info@theoneandonlyone.com 7. Irene Neuwirth ring , $9,940, ireneneuwirth.com 8. Yoko London earrings , $2,800, yokolondon.com 9. Mikimoto earrings , $27,000, mikimoto.com 10. Paul Morelli ear climbers , $3,300, paulmorelli.com 11. Assael cuff , $13,500, assael.com

Words Kristen Shirley

Christopher Designs Crisscut

For an Authorized Jeweler in Your Area Call: 1.800.955.0970 or www.lamourcrisscut.com

L’Amour Crisscut ® is a trademark of Christopher Designs. US and International Patent

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Coomi necklace , $29,500, neimanmarcus.com

OPALMINDED A single opal can flash every color of the spectrum . So they were perfect to play a central part in this year’s colorful collections

R i n a L i m o r e a r r i n g s , $ 6 , 8 0 0 , r i n a l i m o r . c o m

Oscar Heyman bracelet , $275,000, oscarheyman.com

T e m p l e S t . C l a i r r i n g , $ 1 5 0 , 0 0 0 , t e m p l e s t c l a i r . c o m

S u t r a J e w e l s b a n g l e , $ 2 0 , 0 0 0 , s u t r a j e w e l s . c o m

P a m e l a H u i z e n g a e a r r i n g s , $ 1 8 , 6 0 0 , p a m e l a h u i z e n g a . c o m

Penny Preville bracelet , $4,250, pennypreville.com

F e r n a n d o J o r g e r i n g , $ 1 5 , 1 5 0 , b a r n e y s . c o m

K a t h e r i n e J e t t e r r i n g s , f r o m $ 1 0 , 4 0 0 , k a t h e r i n e j e t t e r . c o m

Kimberly McDonald earrings , $17,275, kimberlymdconald.com

www.yvel.com

Available at the Flagship Miami Boutique, the Saks Fifth Avenue Stores & the finest jewelry stores in your area usaservice@yvel.com 561-391-5119

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We love… CHALLENGER 350 VistaJet's latest acquisition, the plush Challenger 350 jet, is fitted with a new type of bulkhead door for total privacy in the cabin. It comes with the VistaJet staples, including Nobu catering. vistajet.com

Aviation

JET OF THE MONTH The jet Gulfstream G650ER

Homely on high A leather recliner. A walnut desk. A dash of gold trim. Once, this was as opulent as private jet interiors got. But designers are now ever more keen to create slick and stylish, rather than purely functional, decor. Lufthansa Technik designed flame-free fireplaces, which meet aviation authorities' requirements while looking like a crackling log fire. Mercedes-Benz collaborated with Lufthansa Technik on a concept interior that looks more akin to a spaceship (below). And Jet Aviation Basel Design Studio set the trend with their white, spa-like interior for a B787 with a marble bar, delicate mosaic floor and striking feature light (above). Helicopter interior designers are also following suit with MAG Design Studio recently unveiling its VIP interior for the first Bell 429 executive helicopter with retro red trim seats. Read the full report about the future of jet interiors by Ian Dryburgh, CEO of Acumen Design Associates on elitetraveler.com

What’s so special? It’s the popular Gulfstream G650 business jet with extended range, due to its capacity for an extra 4,000lb of fuel. (Current G650 owners can convert their jet to a G650ER for roughly $2 million.) Time to circle the globe 25 hours Passengers 18 Sleeps 10 Cruising speed 600mph APP, APP & AWAY Private jet app Jetsmarter has raised $20m in a new round of funding and attracted a clutch of high-profile investors including the Saudi Royal family, executives from Goldman Sachs and Twitter and rapper Jay Z. Dubbed the Uber of private jets, the app allows travelers to book single seats or entire jets. It can also arrange other services including helicopter transfers from the runway to their final destination. Membership is $9,000 a year. jetsmarter.com Cabin length 47 feet Price $66.5 million gulfstream.com

Words Laura Powell

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