Out & About Autumn 2018

The batter is crisp with bubbles that pop as you eat them, and the mushy peas are sweet and creamy. Dijana has the lemon and thyme roasted chicken (£8.95) – two large moist legs atop a garlic confit that’s thick and unctuous. The lemon and thyme flavours are strong, but don’t overpower. We’re advised by our server to have something from the sides menu (£3 each) and Dijana chooses green beans with almonds and creamed spinach with pine nuts – both are delicious. We need a small breather before dessert – time to hope we’ve not guzzled all our aromatic Sicilian Mannara blush Pinot Grigio. No, we have enough to go with the rest of what’s proving to be a surprisingly good meal from head chef Sebastian Smith. The lime cheesecake’s (£7) simple name defies the dish – a creamy quenelle of thick cheesecake mix shot through with lime peel and sitting on a buttery ginger crumb with some pools of raspberry coulis. It is sweet and tangy. I have the cheese plate (£7.95 )– blue, Brie and a strong cheddar with apple, grapes and crackers. Any test of a cheeseboard is that it is most definitely not fridge-cold – this passed. We also could have had a sticky toffee pudding or Oxford mess or a freshly-baked apple tatin. We chat to Yannick after and take a trip to the aforementioned garden as the sun is setting. The garden is most definitely English, certainly Newbury, pretty with nooks and crannies and a splendid view of the back of the property. With 56 rooms at a really decent price and facilities for up to 120 for conferences, The Chequers and its newly-branded restaurant were a bit of a revelation. Stop awhile for a drink or something to eat. It’s really rather swell.

Crayfish and avacado salad

Fish and chips

Lemon and thyme roasted chicken

The Chequers Hotel Oxford Street Kitchen and Bar, 6-8 Oxford Street, Newbury, RG14 1JB. 01635 38000 www.chequershotelnewbury.co.uk Opening times: Monday to Friday: 6.30am – 10pm Saturday: 8am – 10pm Sunday: 8am – 8pm (Lunch: 12noon – 4pm)

Cheese plate

Pictures: Dijana Capan

Out&About restaurant review

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