Wanderlust in the Time of Coronavirus (A GeoEx eBook)

Wanderlust in the Time of Coronavirus

Old Growth: Hiking into the Heart of Muir Woods

redwoods into Cathedral Grove. The trees were the most impressive inhabitants, but the whole world of the woods seemed enchanted. There were layers upon layers, the carpet of pine needles, earth, pebbles, and rotting tree trunks, then the understory of giant ferns and other lush green plants, and overhead the sun-caught canopy, the roof of this natural cathedral. The main trail was already spectacular, but I was eager to get away from the two dozen other visitors scattered along the paved path. After walking for about 45 minutes, I saw a sign that read Fern Creek Trail and featured a map highlighting a 3-mile hiking route. The sign said this hike would take about two hours. A few paces beyond the sign, a narrow earthen path that wound into deep trees beckoned.

entrance fee at the same time as my parking reservation. Since Muir Woods is about an hour’s drive from my house, my plan was to set off at 7:45 am and arrive before the parking lot opened. This would allow me to park before anyone else, hop out of my car, race to the entrance—and for a few glorious minutes, have the majestic monument all to myself. The night before my journey, I researched hiking trails, printed out maps and explanatory materials, and packed my provisions: In addition to the usual granola bars, carrot sticks, and Frappucinos, I prepared two peanut butter and jelly sandwiches, a Clif bar, two bottles of water, and two bottles of Gatorade. This was a serious expedition. You know what they say about the best-laid plans? As it turned out, I didn’t leave the house until 8:00 am, and it was 9:05 when I arrived at the parking lot—and somehow there were already a dozen cars parked there, and excited families and couples were already making their way to the entrance. So much for having the monument to myself. I parked, put on my bandana face mask and hiking hat, grabbed my backpack, and trotted to the entrance. There a smiling ranger scanned my admission barcode, handed me a pamphlet, and waved me into the woods. I snapped a quick photo of the wooden gates and Muir Woods National Monument sign that frame the entrance to the park, then strode onto the broad, wooden board-paved trail that runs for about a mile past some of the park’s most celebrated and spectacular sites, including Founders Grove, Bohemian Grove, and Cathedral Grove. After just a few minutes on the trail, I could already see in the distance a trio of redwoods: staggeringly tall, wide, and straight super-trees, haloed with sunlight filtering through their branches. Immediately I felt touched by a first faint sense of sanctity, serenity, and eternity. This feeling intensified as I walked among the stands of

So I set off onto Fern Creek Trail. After five minutes on this rock-and-dirt path, I was in a world of my own. Walking along the trail was like hiking in Jurassic Park without the dinosaurs. There were towering redwoods on each side of the trail, and huge ferns, California bay laurel, redwood sorrel, and dozens of other primordial-looking plants, their glistening green leaves bigger than my hands.

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