African Wildlife and Environment Issue 64

DESTINATION

DESTINATION

and guided walks to the Fig Forest are arranged through Ezemvelo KZN Wildlife. Under the magnifying glass As with most wild areas, iSimangaliso’s beauty lies many layers deep, and the closer one looks, the more is revealed. As one of the few worldwide “hotspots” of endemism, combined with a high diversity of animal and plant species, scientists, ecologists and conservationists are unanimous that this is an exceptional area, with a great number of new species being discovered annually. Whether beetles, frogs, worms, skinks, chameleons or insects, the range of specimens is astonishing. A visitor may find himself enthralled by the antics of a dung beetle rolling its treasure or the sighting of a rare Serato’s Dwarf Chameleon on a night drive, the beautiful patterns on a Painted Reed Frog or the psychedelic designs on a nudibranch. The mastery of a tailor’s ant nest or a trapdoor spider’s ‘fairy nest’ in the dewy dawn can be every bit as exciting as a herd of buffalo. The rewards, for those who look carefully, are without limit. The best way to see it all? It is quite impossible to distil the essence of so great and diverse an area, in one article, let alone one visit. But if there is one way to see at least a fair sample of much of the Park’s ecosystems, it would be to join the annual iSimangaliso MTB 4 Day adventure ride. Tough it may be, but for anyone prepared to put in some training, this incredible mountain bike experience allows riders to travel from the top of uMkhuze’s Lebombo Mountain range to the edge of the Lake St Lucia estuary at the sea in St Lucia. Over four days of unfolding landscapes, breath-taking vistas and constantly changing conditions, riders have declared this the ultimate way to feel the very heartbeat of the Park. Perhaps the most miraculous thing of all about iSimangaliso is that it very nearly wasn’t. With its future in a delicate balance between the avarice of those seeking mineral exploitation versus the valiant efforts of a dedicated core of passionate conservationists, that swelled into half a million signatures of protest in the 1990’s, the world owes an enormous debt of gratitude to the foresight of NelsonMandela’s cabinet for securing its protection as the country’s first World Heritage Site. Whichever way you choose to explore it, don’t make the mistake of rushing a visit. The Park is one of South Africa’s largest, and worth every extra day one can spend discovering your own personal version of that quintessential sense of place.

seasonal turtle nesting, beach horse rides, shoreline and deep sea angling, sea kayaking or guided estuary canoeing and long leisurely shoreline hikes, the south offers a classic beach holiday experience with a whole lot more besides. Most seaside spots don’t have hippo and crocodiles within arm’s length of the sea (and sometimes in the town of St Lucia too). Nor can they boast two top notch game destinations within minutes of the surf – which is exactly what the Eastern and Western Shores sections of the Park have evolved to become. After some 15 years of land rehabilitation, animal introductions, tourist road networks, day visitor facilities, viewing decks, boardwalks, jetties and ablutions being developed, there is no wildlife area that can offer more variety to holiday makers in the popular south. It could be elephants swimming across the lake narrows or crocodiles chasing w aterbuck, rhino grazing on the lake edge or the finest Kudus in the country, hippos cavorting a boat-length

Africans who have never before experienced thewonder of the ocean or seen a rhino in the flesh; for the poet, the artist, the wanderer and the philosopher – this Park is where their dreams become reality and where they realise the true meaning of the name iSimangaliso. The eastern edge Beginning at its southern point, some 20 km south of the resort town of St Lucia, iSimangaliso spreads northwards along over 200 km of some of the most pristine coastline the world has to offer. The warm gentle waters of the Indian Ocean within iSimangaliso’s three nautical mile marine protected area host in excess of 1 200 recorded fish species and at least 200 coral species. Some of the deepest submarine canyons are found off Sodwana Bay, home to the planet’s oldest fish, the quirky Coelacanth. Five of the world’s seven known species of sea turtle live here, with two of these – the Loggerhead and gigantic endangered Leatherback- using the titanium-rich shores as their southernmost nesting sites.

day guided wilderness trail in one of the country’s only true untouched areas. Or exploring by 4x4 vehicle the soft, undulating sand roads in the narrow Coastal Forest section between Sodwana Bay and Kosi Bay, past southern Africa’s largest fresh water Lake Sibaya, where it feels like time has truly stood still. The tiny bays at Mabibi, Lala Nek, Rocktail Bay, Black Rock, Dog Point, Bhanga Nek and Kosi Bay mouth offer the ultimate reward of seclusion from the rest of humanity. Up here, you may think the rest of the world and all its strife and stress have ceased to exist. Kosi Bay, with four interlinking lakes, is an absolute wonder of its own. Ancient fish traps dating back more than 700 years support a number of original families in subsistence fishing methods. The sparkling white sand and pure waters (no muddy rivers here to dull the clarity) mean a system of incredible beauty and unique features, surely unmatched anywhere else on the planet. The best way to explore is by boat through the winding channels, with several operators offering the service. In the north, one can be spoiled with blissful barefoot luxury at a handful of exclusive catered lodges, or stick to a shoestring budget without sacrificing the full experience of a wondrous part of the Park. The wild west And thenthere is thewild, untamed, bigfivegamesection that is uMkhuze. More than a century of extremes, from punishing floods to devastating droughts, have shaped this incredibly diverse western spur of the World Heritage Site. With looming mountains fringing one side and the uMkhuze River framing much of the other, the rich red soils support an astonishing array of species. At least 400 of the Park’s overall 526 recorded bird species can be seen here, including favourites like Pel’s Fishing Owl, Pink-backed Pelicans, rare vultures and a nesting site of Yellow-billed Storks. Gigantic Sycamore Fig trees soar to spectacular heights along the uMkhuze River, explored with a guide on the Fig Forest walk that leads visitors to a multi-level wooden boardwalk almost at treetop level. Herds of elephant silently roam these parts, and some 18 lions have added another frisson of excitement to the Park’s wildlife – and humans. uMkhuze also provides the perfect habitat for endangered Wild Dogs and Cheetah, both of which species are thriving, along with all the other expected African game species. No visit to uMkhuze is ever the same as he previous one. In the driest of seasons, game clusters around the waterholes at two completely rebuilt hides. The waters of the vast iNsumo Pan, that seasonally shrinks and expands, host hippo, crocodiles and great flocks of water fowl. In summer the constant buzz of insects competes with the shrill calls of myriad birds, the bush sizzles with heat and the afternoon sky hangs low and dark, pregnant with frequent classic African thunderstorms. A recent overhaul of all Park roads means that uMkhuze (along with the Eastern and Western Shores) is unsurpassed as a self-drive destination in even the smallest sedan. uMkhuze offers a fenced campsite, self-catering chalets or permanent safari tents, and two exclusive 8-person ‘rustic-comfort’ lodges. Game drives

The sun sets over Lake St Lucia

away or a magnificent Leopard strolling through the grasslands. Time the trip to coincide with the annual iSimangaliso St Lucia Half Marathon in May, or the upcoming iSimangaliso Trail Challenge, and visitors can get active for a good fundraising cause as well, with a portion of the proceeds being donated to iSimangaliso’s Rare and Endangered Species Fund. The whole gamut of accommodation is found within or close to the Park borders – camping, backpackers, self-catering, family units or exclusive top end luxury. The remote north But not everybody enjoys the buzz of a relatively busy hub. For some, the greater attraction is in getting away from it all, and the further north one goes, the easier that is to achieve. The ultimate escape would be a several

Generations of residents have used the sea as a vital source of sustenance. Today the well-managed marine resources ensure that recreational fishing and harvesting are still bountiful. Divers from all over the world visit Sodwana Bay, rated as one of the top ten diving destinations in the world. The sheltered bay and numerous reefs provide a kaleidoscope of colour for snorkelers and divers of any experience, with world class training facilities available. The deep south The coastal jewels of Maphelane, St Lucia and Cape Vidal are shielded by some of the highest vegetated dunes on the planet. The focus for tourists revolves around taking advantage of the ocean and Lake St Lucia – Africa’s largest estuarine system. With activities including boat trips, boat-based whale watching,

Debbie Cooper Executive Assistant to the CEO of iSimangaliso Wetland Park Authority

22 | African Wildlife & Environment | 64 (2017)

23 | African Wildlife & Environment | 64 (2017)