Mdukatshani - Fifty Years of Beading

When democracy lifted restrictions on movement to the cities, modern young makotis like Dumisile Mtshali would give up beads – and tribal dress – to join their husbands in Johannesburg.

Times are changing. Although the women still have their hair woven into ochre headdresses and wear pleated leather skirts, they have abandoned their heavy silver bangles, while the scarves wrapped around their isicholos say taxis have arrived on the roads. Waiting to hand in their work are a group of Dladla wives, from the left: Gidephi Mpungose, Bangisile Sithole, Bandisile Mtshali, and (behind) Kanyisile Masoka.

The crafters worked when they were not at funerals, a disciplined group which tried to meet deadlines despite the disruptions of violence and grief. Their work was improving to meet an overseas market, and their earnings were giving them a growing self-respect. Some of the changes showed in their dress. They were no longer wearing heavy silver bangles, cast off for comfort, like Victorian petticoats – and a sign of things to

come? Taxis had started to appear on the roads, bringing a new mobility. Mobility was a kind of independence, although most of the vehicles raising clouds of dust were old bakkies with missing windows. Passengers sat on the roof, or clung to the back, testing the joys of transport. But there would be unintended consequences for the women. Drivers complained about their ochre headdresses their isicholos . They took up too much

room in a crowded vehicle, and left smears of ochre on the roof. In response the women started wearing scarves wrapped around their ochred headdresses, gauzy accessories that became part of daily dress until comfort won out, isicholos became detachable, and the women took to wearing head scarves. But taxis were not the only change of that period. Schools were another development. In 1981 Bethuel Majola was appointed Msinga’s first black magistrate, and he launched a programme to build a school on every hill. He had grown up at Msinga, with all its limitations, and he wanted to ensure education for all. Schooling still cost more than many crafters could afford, but gradually it became the norm, and the women took pride in dictating notes to their children, rough scribbles on the margin of a page which were delivered with their work. It was a change with immediate benefits. We no longer had to rely on verbal messages. We could reply with an exchange of notes.

A bead order for New York is washed and spread out to dry before posting.

Mdukatshani – Fifty Years of Beading

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