Mdukatshani - Fifty Years of Beading

Yet in the midst of change traditions linger on, like the use of leather petticoats. The older women feel undressed without them. An isidwaba is the symbol of the spiritual bond of marriage, and when a woman dies it will be buried in her grave. It’s part of forever and forever. Another lasting sign of marriage is the bhayi , a full-length cloth knotted at the shoulder. Even the younger women, discarding tradition, are not yet ready to discard their bhayis . They wear them to town with their two piece outfits, an incongruous mix of the old and the new that describes the confusion of the modern. Yet respect for tradition has revived the dying craft of beads – something on display at the annual gatherings of the Shembe. The Shembes are members of the Nazareth Baptist Church, one of the fastest growing churches in South Africa. Built on the teachings of the prophet, Isaiah Shembe, the church believes in a respect for tradition that sees beads as integral to worship. Beads are more than ornaments worn for celebration. They are part of prayer on holy ground, worn in tribute by thousands of the Shembe faithful when they gather on open dancing grounds to pay homage to Isaiah Shembe.

Two young beadworkers, Nonhlanhla Shezi and Ntombizini Mbatha,were among the first to break with tradition to start wearing orange doeks , or headscarves.

Msinga’s traditional colours are peacock blues, greens and purple, usually worn as bhayis , or knotted shoulder cloths, which denote a woman is married. Bhayis are worn daily – as well as for special occasions.

Friends setting out for a ceremony – all dressed alike. Despite the increasing use of orange, red and yellow, traditional colours still dominate at Msinga.

The rapid growth of the Nazareth Baptist Church has seen a revival of the dying craft of beads. Followers of the prophet, Isaiah Shembe wear headbands and anklets for worship at home, and more elaborate beadwork for their annual gatherings for worship and prayer. Most of the Mdukatshani crafters are members of the church, which has become one of the major faiths in South Africa.

Nothing speaks more to the aspirations of the young than the way they style their hair. Today even toddlers have their hair “styled” while braids are sold at rural spaza shops, along with the bread and cabbages.

Mdukatshani – Fifty Years of Beading

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