Elite Traveler July-August 2017

elite traveler JULY/AUG 2017 119

Light up the Cuban night with the spectacular show at Tropicana

TOP STAYS

TO DO

THROW AN ARTY DINNER PARTY American Pamela Ruiz, who the New York Times called “Havana’s Peggy Guggenheim” for her intimate knowledge of the great contemporary artists of Cuba, throws occasional dinner parties for up to 80 at the house she shares with her husband, noted Cuban artist Damian Aquiles. If you know her, or know one of her friends such as art collector Beth Rudin DeWoody, and ask her very nicely, she’ll arrange a party at her house for you and your friends as she has for Susan Sarandon and Will Smith. It’s not an inexpensive affair, but how else could you be introduced to everyone you want to know in Havana in one night? And the house, which has been featured in Elle Decor and the New York Times ’s T Magazine , is stunning. Pamela can also arrange private tours to see the studios of all the top artists in Havana, and private collection viewings of collectors such as Ella Fontanals-Cisneros, as well as a tour of her husband’s Candy Factory studio where he tutors As the birthplace of premium cigars, Havana is dotted with factories of all shapes and sizes. Most visitors believe only the Partágas factory is open to the public, but two others in Havana welcome tourists: Romeo y Julieta (the lighter cigars) and La Corona. A great tour operator can arrange a visit to all three, but only someone like the aforementioned Celia can arrange to have a private lunch at Partágas with the rollers who will show you some of their secrets and tell stories about Fidel Castro’s favorites. If you’ve never tried a cigar before, do not smoke one without asking for help — visitors who don’t know how to not inhale can get very sick. HAVANA NIGHTS The fairly touristy Tropicana is more fun than you think — it feels very Desi Arnaz in a hilarious throwback way. The list of people who performed here is a who’s who of music history: Celia Cruz, Tito Puente, La Lupe, Xavier Cugat, Carmen Miranda, Nat King Cole and Josephine Baker. The world-class musicians have moved on, but the space is spectacular and the acrobatic performances are like nothing else you’ll see in the Caribbean. Don’t eat there, just go for the show and be sure to arrange a table up front. To really see world-renowned musicians, drop in at the Jazz Cafe. Located in one of the ugliest malls in Havana, it’s nonetheless home to some of the best acts in Cuba — Chucho Valdés, who played at Carnegie Hall recently — drops in to play frequently. Cabaret Tropicana +53 72 671 717, Jazz Cafe +53 78 383 302 BATTER UP If you think you don’t like baseball, you’ve never been to a Cuban baseball game. This is more of a ritual where energy never dies. In fact, it’s an experience — particularly during their National Series — that you will never forget. Think Cuban party in a stadium, mix in a lot of rum, even more dancing, and some spectacular games, and you almost have a sense the scale of it. Industriales are the local team of Havana — they play at the historic Estadio Latinoamericano. promising young Cuban artists. Contact pamaquiles@gmail.com, +53 53 798 879 CIGARS AND MORE CIGARS

GRAN HOTEL MANZANA KEMPINSKI LA HABANA Suite Presidential Lorca

Opened in June 2017, the Kempinski is the only thing resembling a world-class five-star hotel in all of Cuba. Standing out like a gleaming tower of conspicuous 21st century modernity in the center of aging Havana’s Parque Central, overlooking the spectacular Bacardi Building in one direction, the stunning Bellas Artes building and the famous Teatro in another, it is situated in the middle of the Unesco World Heritage area. The massive, 1,615 sq ft presidential suite (the only in Cuba) with kitchen and dining room has the best views. Other hotel amenities include the city’s only world-class Resense spa, a stunning infinity pool, rooftop bar, three restaurants and a cigar bar, as well as a gym — all with the same unbeatable views. From $5,000 per night, contact Xavier Destribats, senior vice president, reservations.lahabana@ kempinski.com, kempinski.com VILLA VIP LE BLANC Party House in Miramar If you’re looking for something away from the center of the city and extremely secluded, Havana has a number of private villas for rent in tiny neighborhoods such as Miramar. This six-bedroom villa comes with a pool and you can add a bartender and private chef as well as a vintage car and driver. Warning: The decor of even the most luxe villas in

Cuba will always be found wanting, but the wonderful service and ability to experience the “real” Havana will likely outweigh the assault on good taste. From $1,500 per night, contact Celia Mendoza, info@conciergehabana.com, +53 53 197 569, conciergehabana.com In a surprise twist, Cuba is now open for boat visits, so perhaps the best way to go is to motor your yacht 90 miles south of Florida with your best friends and staff — heading to Havana’s most modern (and only) marina, named after local hero Ernest Hemingway. Just nine miles from downtown Havana, the marina lacks a lot of the modern conveniences seen in most harbors, so bring what you’re going to need. Oh, and don’t bring your superyacht; the maximum length the marina can handle is 230ft. Latitude: 23° 5.35’ N, Longitude: 82° 30.5’ W comercial@prto.mh.cyt.cu, +53 733 115 056 MARINA HEMINGWAY BYOY (Bring Your Own Yacht)

The luxurious five-star Gran Hotel Manzana Kempinski La Habana