Elite Traveler March-April 2017

elite traveler MAR/APR 2017 123

Skaros is a great spot for watching the sunset, but first you have to navigate the steep path to the rocky outcrop

TAKE THREE/// SECRET SPOTS FOR SUNSET

1. SKAROS A vertiginous path links the cliffside village of Imerovigli to this rocky outcrop. A medieval castle accessible via a wooden drawbridge, by the 17th century this fortified rock housed 200 dwellings. It was later abandoned. The vista from the top is like stepping inside a View-Master. Clamber (carefully!) down the sea-facing path to the hidden chapel of Theoskepasti, dangling above the caldera, where you’ll have the

edge of the world. This is a mind-blowing spectacle, with none of the crowds. 3. SIGALASWINERY Santorini’s volcanic terroir produces world-class wines (notably crisp white Assyrtiko and amber, liquid-caramel Vin Santo). Former math teacher Paris Sigalas is one of the most groundbreaking vintners. At his estate, superb wines are paired with refined dishes using local ingredients – cucumber gazpacho, white eggplant layered with goat cheese and pine nuts, sea bass carpaccio with beetroot jus and citrus mousse. Everything tastes even more luscious as twilight paints the vineyards gold. Contact Panayiota Kalogeropoulou, hospitality director, sigalaswinetasting@ gmail.com, sigalaswinetasting.com

MUST-SEE SIGHTS

Ancient Akrotiri The Pompeii of Greece, this Minoan city was buried by a volcanic eruption some 3,600 years ago. Only a fraction of the settlement, unearthed by chance while quarrying ash for the Suez Canal, has been excavated. Signage is minimal, so a guide is indispensable. My Odyssey, a bespoke Greek travel concierge, has the island’s leading archaeologists on speed dial. Museum of Prehistoric Thira Houses in ancient Akrotiri were decorated with wall paintings of monkeys, saffron pickers and fishermen. Most of these frescoes are in the Archaeological Museum in Athens, but a few are on display at this small but stunningmuseum in Fira. The Bronze Age jewelry, ceramic vessels andmarble figurines are extraordinarily delicate. ▲ Black, red and white beaches Santorini’s volcanic beaches come in every hue. Avoid the crowds at black-sand Perissa and Red Beach; instead, dive into Vlychada (above), backed by cliffs of sculpted lava; Katharos (“clean” in Greek), which lives up to its name; and – if you dare – Kolumbo, overlooking an active underwater volcano. Contact Antonis Lordanoglou, general manager, antonis@my-odyssey.com, my-odyssey.com

sunset all to yourself. 2. THE LIGHTHOUSE

Everyone descends on Oia to watch the sunset, jostling for the best spot with selfie sticks. Head in the opposite direction, to the lighthouse on Santorini’s southern tip, where it’s like watching the sun fall off the

STYLISH SOUVENIRS

Santorini Arts Factory Intensely sweet cherry tomatoes were once Santorini’s biggest export. This tomato-canning factory, where you can try out the cranky machinery, now houses a gallery and Greek design shop. Witty souvenirs are “gift-wrapped” in cans. santoriniartsfactory.gr/en Crossroad One This elegant antique shop filled with vintage maps and prints is one more reason to visit Pyrgos, one of Santorini’s prettiest villages. crossroad-santorini.com Dust 1956 Seek out this boutique in Fira for butter-soft Valia Gabriel sandals and beach-ready Atlantis Books Dreamed up by a gang of literary adventurers, this beautiful bookshop in Oia is packed to the rafters with novels, travelogs and, of course, Greek mythology and philosophy. The journals and totes make great souvenirs. atlantisbooks.org jewelry by Mary Gaitani. facebook.com/dust1956

Andy Hayler’s hidden gem Taverna Roza This deceptively simple tavern in

Vourvoulos has been serving a long line of happy customers since 1983. With a pretty setting on the Kamari beach promenade, it offers a selection of the best local produce. You might try the excellent cherry tomatoes, fava beans or wild boar, all served with freshly made pita bread. This is a small place, with just nine tables, but the atmosphere is relaxed and the welcome genuine.

TOP RESTAURANTS Selene The setting, in Pyrgos village, may be understated, but the food at Selene is effortlessly sophisticated: Greek

fritters to the sardines stuffed with herbs. topsaraki.gr Hasapiko After hours, tourists hit the dubious nightspots in Fira. Those in the know head to this former butcher shop in Oia for killer margaritas and mojitos.

inspiring cooking classes. selene.gr Candouni You can’t miss this cozy, family-run

salt-crusted sea bass are the stuff of Greek dreams. To Psaraki Overlooking Vlychada beach, this quintessential blue-and- white taverna is a cut above. Everything is grown or caught locally, from the cherry-tomato

salad tortelli with dried olives and onion chips, or veal sweetbreads with Vin Santo zabaglione. The wine bar downstairs offers casual mezes and

restaurant in Oia’s backstreets – the candlelit terrace is cloaked in bougainvillea. The slow-roast lamb and