Elite Traveler March-April 2017

INSPIRE TOP JEWELRY

Bulgari ROME, 1884

For Bulgari, everything begins with Rome: iconic images of Elizabeth Taylor and other Hollywood stars leaving the flagship boutique on Via dei Condotti, bucking tradition and classical high-jewelry codes from Paris by embracing colored gemstones and cabochon cuts and, perhaps best known of all, its enduring Serpenti jewelry, inspired by Roman myths. Of course, it’s not enough to have a sense of fun and la dolce vita , and Bulgari has expert craftsmanship and stunning stones, which it showcases in its high-jewelry collections. Famous pieces from the past include the Seven Wonders necklace, set with seven large Colombian emeralds, and Elizabeth Taylor’s sapphire sautoir, given to her by Richard Burton. Today, Bulgari celebrates its history in each piece of high jewelry, most recently with the pictured Serpenti necklace, featuring more than 75 carats of diamonds.

Buccellati MILAN, 1919 Many of Italy’s most famous Renaissance artists, including Botticelli, were also accomplished goldsmiths, so it’s no surprise that Buccellati looks to their ancient techniques, art and style for inspiration. Buccellati passes its jewelry-making secrets through the family, starting with founder Mario Buccellati down to its current creative team, Andrea Buccellati and his 27-year-old daughter Lucrezia. Buccellati is perhaps best known for its work with a honeycomb pattern, where artisans essentially create lace or tulle in gold, as seen in the pictured earrings. This time-consuming, handcrafted work brings a sense of lightness to what could otherwise be very heavy, imposing pieces. Another hallmark of the house is the rigato technique, hand-engraving gold to give it a texture that looks like silk.

Cartier PARIS, 1847

Cartier and its famous panthers have been inextricably linked since the big cat’s first appearance in 1914, on a wristwatch. Following a safari in Africa, Jeanne Toussaint, who ultimately became the house’s high-jewelry creative director, developed a lifelong passion for the feline. She was, in fact, known as La Panthère for her mysterious ways and famous “Toussaint style.” To truly bring the icon to life, Cartier even created a “fur” setting technique, where diamonds are encircled by tiny gold threads to recreate the panther’s coat. In 1949, the Duchess of Windsor commissioned the stunning archival brooch to the right, with the gem-set panther perched on top of an enormous cabochon- cut sapphire. Every year, Cartier releases high-jewelry timepieces, many of which feature the panther. Here, it climbs around the wearer’s wrist and clutches the watch dial in its delicate white gold paws.

1. Bulgari High-jewelry Serpenti necklace in 18K white gold with two pear-shaped diamonds, 0.95 carats, and 75.27 carats pavé diamonds, price on request, available by appointment, contact Anita Paredes, +1 800 285 4274, bulgari.com 2. Buccellati Ducale bracelet in 18K yellow and white gold with 15.35 carats diamonds 3. Buccellati Cocktail pendant earrings in 18K yellow and white gold with 2.62 carats diamonds; both price on request, available by appointment at Buccellati in New York, +1 212 308 2900, buccellati.com 4. Cartier Brooch commissioned by the Duchess of Windsor featuring a 152.34-carat cabochon-cut sapphire 5. Cartier Panthère de Cartier Magicien high-jewelry watch in 18K white gold featuring tourmaline, rock crystal, onyx, emeralds and diamonds, price on request, available by appointment, +1 800 227 8437, cartier.com