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More precious time passes. It is ever more crucial that on the descent, in darkness, people help, communicate and
support each other. A curious scenario emerges however. Single climbers wander off to start their descent alone, or
in twos and threes. Nominated leaders leave their teammembers behind. Efforts are made by some Sherpas to keep
everyone together and co-ordinate the descent, but to little avail.
Soon afterwards, the Great Serac claims a victim, Rolf Bae. The fixed rope through the Traverse, their single lifeline,
has been cut. An emergency rope is prepared, yet this is not communicated to the other climbers.
Cas van de Gevel
Norit K2 Dutch 2008 International Expedition
“But if you need tomake difficult decisions or when you see something like somebody falling, then you need tomake radio
contact. There must be a point where you say ‘okay, now it is time to use the radio’ but others may think what they are
doing is more important. For example, the Norwegians who were fixing the emergency rope may have felt that people
coming down behind them would find out the rope is hanging down and they would be okay, so did not make radio
contact.”
Lars Flato Nessa
Norwegian 2008 International Expedition
“We knew they would be far behind us in the darkness and probably exhausted after a long day. We left it there [the
emergency rope] and hoped that they would understand that this a safe rope you can use to pass the rest of the crevasse.
But I do not think many used it.”
Oblivious to what has happened in the Traverse, the rest of the summited climbers try to make their way down, their
path only lit by their small headlamps.
August 1st around 22:00
Making Sense Of The Inevitable
Eric Meyer and Frederik Sträng – waiting at Camp IV − do not notice the arrival of Cecilie Skog and Lars Nessa. The
quietness and emptiness of Camp IV concerns them however, and in particular the lack of radio communication.
After the frantic and jubilant exchanges from the summit, radio traffic has been suspiciously quiet. Frequent
communication is essential to establish what is happening and to co-ordinate activities in surroundings where
visibility is restricted. Despite agreeing on a single frequency, not everybody carries a radio and some handsets do
not always work at this altitude. Other expeditions have switched to their own frequencies, and others communicate
in their own language. As a result, those who stayed back or are returning to Camp IV, are largely oblivious of the
threat that is looming over those still struggling to make their way down in pitch-black darkness.
Alberto Zerain
Basque Independent climber (Alpine style)
“I stayed in Camp IV for a while and, as I always tell as a joke, nobody said ‘hi’ tome there. There was an Americanwho was
said to be a doctor and I thought he would invite me in for some tea or something but he did not even talk to me; he went
back to his tent. I do not knowwho else was there but nobody talked to me. I was out of my tent for about 15 minutes and
nobody asked me anything.”
August 1st around 22:00
A Question Of Bivouacking
On the snowfield leading up to the summit, Karim Meherban and Wilco van Rooijen are desperately seeking a way
down. They are lost. They join Marco Confortola and Gerard McDonnell and decide to bivouac – without a tent,
sleeping bag, food or oxygen. A few hours later, Karim Meherban stands up and wanders off into the darkness.