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May–August 2017
The Southern Rhône Val ley
BY PETER NEPTUNE, MS, AIWS, CWE, FWS
Senior Vice President, Corporate Training & Wine Education for
The Henry Wine Group
The mighty Rhône river begins high
in the Alps, south of the Swiss city of
Lucerne, and flows west through the
vineyards of the Valais, then northeast
into Lake Geneva. From there it flows
south through the vineyards of Savoie,
then west to join the Saône River at
Lyons. There it turns due south and
flows through a steep river gorge as it
makes its way to the Mediterranean
Sea west of Marseilles.
Although the Rhône is considered
to be one region, it is effectively
divided into two distinct parts: the
Syrah-dominated north
(Rhône
septentrionale)
and the Grenache-
influenced south
(Rhône méridionale)
.
The climates are different, as are the
soils. The northern Rhône vineyards
lie between Vienne and Valence, a
distance of approximately 40 miles.
Then there is a gap of around 35 miles,
before the southern Rhône vineyards
begin again just south of the town of
Montélimar. This article will take a
look at the Southern Rhône.
The AC structure is three-tiered. First
is the generic AC of Côtes du Rhône,
from vineyards anywhere in the
region. Second is the Côtes du Rhône
-Villages AC, reserved for certain
villages in the south only. Finally,
at the commune level, are the
crus
,
villages with individual AC status.
As the Rhône makes its way south the
valley begins to spread out around
Montelimar, losing its steep slopes
and giving way to pockets of sandy
soil amidst the
garrigue,
the wild
herbs that dot the scrubland. The
climate changes from continental to
Mediterranean, with hotter summers
and milder winters. With nothing
to shelter the vineyards from the
Mistral, windbreaks of trees have to be
planted. Instead of Syrah dominating
the plantings, this is a blender’s
appellation, with more than 13
different varietals cultivated in varying
numbers. Grenache is the most
important, with a natural high sugar
content that results in wines of high
alcohol. Cinsault and Mourvedre are
also significant, the former is low in
tannin, with high acid fruitiness, and
the latter is deep-colored and tannic,
adding a meaty weight to the blend.
Carignan is also used in a red blend,
along with others. For the whites,
Marsanne and Roussanne are joined
by Clairette, Ugni Blanc, Rolle, and
others. Muscat blanc a petits grains
is also cultivated, to be used in the
production of
vins doux naturels
.
All vines are pruned low, to resist
the fierce wind and to maximize
the reflected heat of the soil. Syrah
is often wire trained to the Guyot
single system, while the others are
bush-pruned.
THE TOP APPELLATIONS OF THE
SOUTHERN RHÔNE
CÔTES-DU-RHÔNE AOC:
this
is a generic AC that covers the
entire Rhône region, with the vast
majority produced in the Southern
Rhône (over 90%). The quality
and character varies widely, with a
number of high-quality wines being
made, representing tremendous
value. Reds, whites and rosé wines
are from Grenache, Clairette, Syrah,
Mourvedre, Picpoul, Terret noir,
Picardin, Cinsault, Roussanne,
Marsanne, Bourboulenc, Viognier,
with up to 30% Carignan, and a
maximum 30% of (in total) Counoise,
Muscardin, Vaccarese, Pinot blanc,
Mauzac, Pascal blanc, Calitor,
Camarese, etc. Nearly every top
Rhône producer has a Côtes-du-
Rhône in their stable.
CÔTES-DU-RHÔNE-VILLAGES
AOC:
within the southern Rhône
there are a number of villages
entitled to call their reds (and some
rosés) Côtes-du-Rhône-Villages, if
they meet a higher criteria set out
in the regulations of the AC. Here,
for example, the minimum alcohol
is 12.5% instead of 11%, and the
maximum yield is 42 hl/ha, instead of
52 hl/ha. When wine from a number
of these villages is blended, its AOC
is simply Cotes-du-Rhone-Villages.
There are 20 villages that can append
their name to the Appellation if
the wine comes exclusively from
that stated village, such as Côtes-
du-Rhône-Villages Sablet AC (see
below for full list). Compared to
generic Côtes-du-Rhône, these wines
generally have better depth, character
and quality. The reds are generally
excellent, from a minimum of 50%
Grenache, plus a minimum of 20%
Syrah and/or Mourvedre, and up to
20% Carignan and Cinsault. Whites
are improving, made from a minimum
of 80% Clairette, Roussanne, and
Bourboulenc, with up to 20% of
others. There are excellent rosés from
Grenache, Carignan, and Cinsault
with others.
The list of the 20 villages of the
Côtes-du-Rhône-Villages (all must
be preceded by Côtes-du-Rhône-
Villages):
Cairanne, Chusclan,
Gadagne, Laudun, Massif d'Uchaux,
Plan de Dieu, Puyméras, Roaix,
Rochegude, Rousset-les-Vignes, Sablet,
St. Cecile, St.-Gervais, St.-Maurice-
sur-Eygues, St.-Pantaleon-les-Vignes,
Séguret, Signargues, Suze-la-Ruisse,
Valreas, Vaison la Romaine, and Visan.
VINSOBRES AOC:
This former
Côtes-du-Rhône village was
justifiably upgraded to AOC status in
February 2006. Located in the Drôme
department (the same as Hermitage),
Vinsobres is the most Northern-
Rhône style Southern-Rhône wine,
and is one of the best places to grow
Syrah in the Southern Rhône valley,
because in this climate the syrah keeps
the finesse and elegance that it can
lose in other places of the Southern
Rhône (due to altitude and also cooled
by the valley of the Aigues river and
its east-west Le Pontias wind).
The blend is a minimum 50%
Grenache and an additional minimum
25% Syrah and/or Mourvedre, with
the wines showing an appealing
peppery/lavender, blue and red fruit