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11

FOOD

Olives are distinguished by variety (Calamata,

Cerignola, Niçoise, etc.), the region where they are grown,

when they are picked, and how they are cured.

O

lives and olive oil are cornerstone

of the Mediterranean diet, which

encourages more plant-based foods

such as fruits and vegetables, whole grains,

legumes and nuts, and replacing butter with

healthy fats like olive oil. Both are high in

oleic acid, a monounsaturated omega-9

fatty acid, which has been found to reduce

the risk of atherosclerosis and increase good

cholesterol, and a good source of vitamin E.

90 percent of tree-ripened olives are turned

into olive oil. (It generally takes over 1,000

olives to make one liter of oil.)

Though olives are most closely associated

with Mediterranean cuisine, they’re

cultivated all over the world, especially wine

regions where the climates — long hot

summer and mild winters — are friendly

to olive trees. Olive trees in hospitable

climates like Italy, Spain and Greece can

live for more than a century.

All olives start out green and darken as they

ripen, going from green to light brown to

reddish-brown to purple to black. (Olives

are considered “green ripe” when they’ve

reached full size but haven’t begun to change

color.) Green olives picked at the start of

the harvest season have a firm texture and

a slightly nutty flavor. Darker olives picked

toward the end of harvest are softer, meatier

and have a richer flavor.

The olives you’ll find on our shelves and

olive bar have been cured. Olives should

never be eaten raw. They contain the

compound oleuropein, which makes them

sharp and bitter, and need to undergo a

curing process before they’re ready to eat.

There are five types of curing used to leach

out the oleurpoin: oil-curing, in which fully

ripened olives are slowly fermented in brine,

a process that intensifies the olive’s natural

flavors; water-curing; air-curing; lye-curing,

a Spanish method; and dry-curing, which

involves storing the olives in salt for several

months. Typically the longer olives are

cured, the more multi-layer their flavor.

If your olive expertise is limited to whole

versus pitted, here are a few to try from the

rotating selection on our olive bar.

Bella di Cerignola:

Handpicked in the sunny

fields of Puglia, Italy, these smooth, buttery beauties

are known for their enormous size and crisp, meaty bite.

Calamata (or Kalamata):

These naturally

cured deep purple, almond-shaped Greek table olives

boast an intense smoky, tart olive flavor.

California Sevillano:

These plump, meaty

Sicilian-cured green olives have a briny, buttery flavor.

Also available in a garlicky marinade.

Castelvetrano:

Green-hued Sicilian Castelvetrano

olivesaremeaty,withabutteryflesh,andasweet,mildflavor.

Niçoise:

Herbal French olives are a must for salade

Niçoise and tapenade.

Seasoned Black Greek Olives:

These

naturally cured Greek olives have a meaty texture and

tart, slightly acidic, red-wine vinegar flavor.

Warm Olives

(Yields 1 cup)

WHAT YOU WILL NEED

Zest from 1 small lemon

¼ cup Rouses extra-virgin olive oil

1

small rosemary sprig

2

small garlic cloves,

thickly sliced chile threads (optional)

3

cups mixed olives, such as Calamata,

Cerignola, Niçoise, Sevillano and

Castelvetrano

HOW TO PREP

With a zester carefully peel off a strip of the

lemon skin, working top to bottom. Turn

the lemon as you go so you remove only the

yellow part.

In amedium saucepan, combine the lemon zest

with the olive oil, rosemary and garlic and cook

over moderate heat until the garlic just begins

to brown, about 6 minutes. Remove from the

heat, stir in the olives and let stand for at least

15 minutes before serving.

Eat Right

with Rouses

Healthy Fats

“The days of encouraging low-fat diets may have backfired since it led to the

belief that “low-fat” automatically implies the item is healthy. In fact, many

low-fat foods are loaded with sugar or even sodium to compensate, which

can bring on another world of problems. Thankfully, the blanket statement

of “low-fat” is dissipating to give way to the phrase “healthy fats.” Healthy

fats are unsaturated fats, specifically monounsaturated and polyunsaturated

fats. Unlike saturated fats that are solid at roomtemperature, unsaturated fats

are liquid at room temperature. Monounsaturated fats help lower cholesterol,

while polyunsaturated fats can protect against heart disease.”

—Esther, Rouses Dietitian

Cured