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Hyaluronic acid (HA) is a gel-like water-holding
molecule that is the space filler and cushioning
agent that is found in our bodies already. So it
is not unusual to see this ingredient in skin care
products. One of the huge benefits is that, as
we already have it in our system so our body
recognises it and knows what to do with it.
Our bodies roughly contain 15 grams of HA
and it is found in virtually every part of the body.
With such a widespread occurrence, it is logical
that it also has multiple functions. Scientific
studies have shown that HA improves skin
hydration, stimulates production of collagen in
skin, works as an antioxidant and free radical
scavenger, maintains skin elasticity, cushions
joints and nerve tissues, has an anti-bacterial
and anti-inflammatory activity and maintains
the fluid in the eye tissues, which may help to
protect against various possible eye concerns.
Roughly one third of HA is degraded and
synthesized on a daily basis. This is where the
problems arise. Decreasing levels of HA are
known to accompany the ageing process and it
is estimated that by the time we reach our mid-
40s, the synthesis of it is roughly half of that
required by the body.
Alpha-hydroxy acids (glycolic, lactic, tartaric
and citric acids) are found in many creams and
lotions and AHAs help with fine lines, irregular
pigmentation and age spots, and may help
decrease enlarged pores.
A side-effect of alpha-hydroxy acids is sun
sensitivity, so for that reason, sunscreen should
also be used every morning.
It is advisable to start with a product with
concentrations of AHA of 10 to 15 per cent.
Also, make sure you ease into it. You want to
get your skin used to alpha-hydroxy acids, so
you should only initially apply the skin care
product every other day, gradually working up to
daily application.
Beta-hydroxy acid (salicylic acid) has been
studied for its effect on skin that has aged
prematurely due to exposure to ultraviolet rays
from the sun. It exfoliates skin and can improve
the texture and colour of the skin. It penetrates
oil-laden hair follicle openings and, as a result
helps with acne.
Skin care products containing hydroquinone
are referred to as bleaching creams or
lightening agents and are used to lighten
hyperpigmentation, such as age spots and dark
spots related to pregnancy or hormone therapy
(melasma or chloasma).
Kojic acid is a more recent remedy for the
treatment of pigment problems and age spots
and it has a similar effect as hydroquinone.
Retinol is a derivative of vitamin A. Here’s why
skin responds to skin care products with retinol:
vitamin A has a molecular structure that’s tiny
enough to get into the lower layers of skin,
where it finds collagen and elastin. Retinol is
proven to improve mottled pigmentation, fine
lines and wrinkles, skin texture, skin tone and
colour, and your skin’s hydration levels.
If you’ve heard of fish referred to as brain food,
you can thank DMAE (dimethylaminoethanol).
This substance is naturally produced in the
brain, but DMAE is also present in anchovies,
salmon and sardines. DMAE in skin care
products shows remarkable effects when
applied to skin, resulting in the reduction
of fine lines and wrinkles.
So there you have it – a very brief over view of
the different ingredients that are results driven.
It’s always best to consult a qualified
professional with good training and knowledge
to make sure you are using the right product
for your skin and it’s needs.
Diverse Beauty has more than
20 years experience in skin care and
we are keen to educate you to help
you get the right products. Take
advantage of our special offer for
our readers – buy one facial get one free.
Do you understand the acids
used in skincare products?
There is such a wide range of products on the shelves that is a complete
minefield to know what is going to work best for you. Victoria Lee sheds
some light on the choices, along with the benefits of certain ingredients to
help you narrow down the search for a product that will make a difference.
Victoria Lee from Diverse Beauty
www.diversebeauty.co.ukT: 01635 728036