Out & About July 2017

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an apple and onion fritter, local Tutts
Clump cider gravy and fresh vegetables.
The pork is rolled into a perfect round and
is meltingly soft surrounded by a sweet/
sharp shot of Tutts Clump cider-flavoured
gravy.
The apple and onion fritter is like an
onion bhaji, an accompaniment Jonathan
developed with his chef.
Before our mains, we’d chosen tempura
battered tiger prawns with a chilli ketchup,
£7.25.
The prawns were fresh-tasting in a mean
crispy batter and the chilli ketchup was
mild not hot.
We also chose a board of pork and black
pudding terrine with chicken liver and
Armagnac paté, £6.75, which came with
homemade piccalilli, real ale chutney and
toasted bloomer.
The piccalilli was crunchy and fresh, the
pork and black pudding terrine was coarse
and peppery in contrast with the smooth
chicken liver pate.
I could have done with another triangle
of toast, but despite that it was a great
choice for a terrine-lover like me.
We are now pretty full, but the
accommodating staff give us time to rest
before bringing a rich and smooth crème
brûlée (all desserts £5.50) and an unusual
‘mess’-type pudding with kiwi, mango and
meringue, which was also lushly creamy
and fresh at the same time.
The wine list is well chosen – having
both been to the Margaret River region in
Western Australia we joke as we sit down
that you rarely see this region’s wines on
the menu.
But lo, there is a delicious Margaret River
Semillon which was just as it should be –
peachy and full of sunny notes.
After dinner, we sit at the snug bar for a
final drink and conclude that Jonathan and
his wife and staff have styled everything
just right.
This doesn’t feel like a faux English inn, it
is a proper tavern, but with stylish touches
and impressive food that doesn’t daunt.
It’s not far out of Newbury town centre,
it has plenty of parking and The Barn is
becoming popular for weddings, which are
limited to 20 per year to ensure a balance
with the busy restaurant trade.
So, though you might not have a horse to
tie up outside or your own tankard ready
to fill with ale, you’ll find proper old-
fashioned hospitality, but brought bang up
to date at the Hare and Hounds.
I’d saddle up and get on down there when
you can.
Photographs: Dijana Capan
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Hare & Hounds Hotel
Bath Rd, Speen,
Newbury
RG14 1QY
01635 521152
Top: roast pork shoulder with cider gravy.
Bottom from left: tempura battered Tiger
prawns, board of pork and black pudding
terrine with chicken liver and Armagnac
paté, 8oz rump steak cooked in a Bertha,
crème brûlée