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MY
ROUSES
EVERYDAY
JULY | AUGUST 2017
I
t’s burger season. For some, that means that it’s time to start
thinking about condiments. For others, it’s time to run.Ketchup,
pickles and mayonnaise — they all have a superpower to unite
or divide the cookout crowd.
Condiment divisiveness ran deep in our family. When just a girl,
my mother ate an entire jar of mayonnaise in one sitting. At least
that was the story she told us whenever we started lathering up our
hamburger buns with Blue Plate. She got so sick afterwards, she
never touched the stuff again.
Mayo makes my sister Christy gag too.The cause remains a mystery.
When we were kids, one of my brother Michael’s preferred tools
of torture was a generous white dollop clinging to a spoon placed
inches from Christy’s nose. Decades later, we still get the urge to
run towards her with a butter knife full of the stuff. Pitiless? Maybe,
but I believe the inclination to torment
came from our confusion over her ability
to enjoy potato salad, which is, of course,
positively
laden
with the stuff. Say what?The
contradiction spurred on our relentlessness.
Can science explain the desire to retch
when traces of a misplaced pickle or tomato
linger on the bun? According to a number
of studies done during the past two decades,
the act of cooking food can change that
food’s chemistry. In the case of tomatoes,
there is an antioxidant called lycopene that
seems to be affected by heat. Cook up the
tomato, and a “’mater hater” can handle it.
But chemistry is only one of many factors
that make up the complex science related
to taste. Some studies suggest our likes
and dislikes might begin
in utero
and are
connected to what our mothers ate during
pregnancy or while nursing.
Thankfully, a fresh generation of hamburger
eaters has expanded the condiment culture
— giving their picky counterparts new
opportunities to change their ways and
expand their horizons. In fact, in a National
Restaurant Association (NRA) survey of
nearly 1,300 professional chefs, house-made
condiments ranked seventh on a list of 10
hottest trends.The survey, meant to provide
insight into what drives customers through
a restaurant door, reported that 68 percent
of the chefs viewed “craft” condiments — whether it be a special
type of sriracha, mustard or a fancy mayonnaise — as a hot trend in
2017. And four craft condiments — sriracha, chili-infused honey,
Worcestershire sauce and mayonnaise — were among the NRA’s
FABI Award recipients this year.The FABI, or Food and Beverage
Award, recognizes food & beverage innovations across the industry.
And there’s no need to get too fancy. A pinch of dill, basil or
tarragon or a drop of fresh lemon or lime juice easily can transform
a plain jar of mayonnaise or mustard into something special. A few
more ideas for perking up mayo include adding a little sesame oil
or mashing in some roasted garlic. But that’s just a starting point
— the possible add-ons are only limited by your imagination and
what’s on hand in your fridge.
“If you’ve ever watched the TV show
How I Met Your Mother
, you’ve heard of the Olive Theory, which means that
two people go well together if one likes olives and one hates olives. They balance each other out. I hate pickles.
I’m not a huge fan of vinegary things, but pickles are the worst. My wife Elizabeth loves pickles, especially on
hamburgers. We both like tomatoes, but we’re split on mayonnaise. We’re clearly meant to be.”
—Marc Ardoin, Rouses Corporate Chef
the
Burger
issue
Hold the Mayo
by
Suzette Norris