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irstly I’m going to look at two lesser-known,
stunning sweet wines, Tokay (or Tokaji)
and Constantia, both of which have had,
deservedly, a renaissance in the last
couple of decades, and both of which were very
popular in the Russian Imperial court.
Tokay declined in quality after 1918 with the
disappearance of the Russian and Austrian
empires – and the rich clientele – and then yet
further under communist rule.
Happily a new generation of wine-makers have
now revived this terrific wine.
Dobogó `Mylitta` Noble Late
Harvest Tokaji, 2012
This delightfully sweet Tokaji
is pale gold in the glass, with
dominant aromas of blossom
and honey, accompanied by
refreshing citrus notes. The
palate is deeper and more
complex; a myriad of different
apricot varieties and flowers.
Made from Aszu-quality grapes
(late-picked grapes with Noble
Rot) but with less barrel and
bottle age, creating a lovely,
fresher touch.
£20.95 from Innathome, Newbury
Tokaji Aszü 5 Puttonyos, Szepsy-Dulo 2005
A wine with a rich, honeyed, raisin flavour with
a long, lingering finish. This has excellent bottle
age and for those liking mature wines this is
something of a bargain.
£17.95 from Haynes Hanson & Clark, Whitchurch
2008 Royal Tokaji Essencia
Essencia is the richest and rarest
of all Hungarian Tokaji wines
made from the juice naturally
oozing out of the ripe grapes with
no pressing. Typically, this free-
run juice takes six to eight years
to complete its fermentation to
less than three per cent alcohol.
Essencia can reach 85 per cent
residual sugar.
Essencia wine is legendary. Deep
gold colour with a hint of amber.
Fresh, ripe peach on the nose
with complex honeyed, spicy,
ginger notes and background
presence of botrytis. Full, but
graceful to taste, intensely concentrated, rich and
sweet, balanced with taunt acidity. Stunning!
It was so highly-prized that the Czar of Russia
kept a detachment of soldiers in Hungary purely
to bring the latest vintage safely back to St
Petersburg.
£390 per bottle from Laithwaites, Theale
Vin de Constance 2013
Klein Constantia – South Africa
‘
From these Elysian fields
used to come one of the very
greatest wines in the world – the
legendary Constantia
’, writes
Hugh Johnson. ‘
Constantia was
bought by European courts in the
early 19th century in preference
to Yquem, Tokay, Madeira…
’
Indeed this was one of Catherine
the Great’s top tipples.
From vineyards originally planted
in 1685 by Dutch settlers, this
wine was really popular in
Victorian times, but the vineyards were completely
wiped out by phylloxera disease in 1865.
It was only in 1985 that the vineyards were revived
and wine made again.
Bright and gold in appearance with aromas of
citrus marmalade and frangipani abundant on the
nose. The palate is full-bodied and complex. The
wine concludes with a long, spicy and grippy finish.
£52 from Grapesmith, Hungerford
Tovaritch, Russian Vodka
The world’s most awarded Vodka apparently, this
pure spirit is distilled five times from Russian grain
and it’s gluten-free. Fantastic by the shot, Tovaritch
also makes a staggeringly good Vodka Martini.
£18.99 from the Naked Grape, Hungerford
Stolichnaya, Russian Vodka
Stolichnaya’s roots are Russian, with
the brand launched in the early 20th
century, taking its name from ‘stolitsa’
(capital city).
Stolichnaya is a classically-styled,
exceptionally smooth vodka and
is crystal-clear in colour with
marshmallow, mineral and mild fruit
peel aromas. A soft and smooth,
medium-bodied palate with pastry
frosting, talc and citrus rind flavours.
Finishes with a clean, lightly sweet,
sugar dust, wet straw and balanced
pepper fade.
£18.45 from Haynes Hanson & Clarke,
Whitchurch
Louis Roederer Crystal
Louis Roederer’s top-end champagne is not
only the best of the best, but also has a
fascinating birth, all down to one paranoid Tsar.
Tsar Alexander II of Russia was terrified of
being assassinated even when drinking
champagne.
When holding a feast in 1876, he requested
his champagne be clear so he could see the
colour of the wine. He also insisted that the
bottle be flat bottomed so no bombs could
be hidden in the dimple. These are
traditions that have continued to this day
and can still be found on the 2009 vintage
currently available.
A truly incredible champagne that will
make you the toast of the evening, if not
the Czar.
As for Alexander II himself, despite all his
efforts, he was still assassinated in 1881.
£175 from Majestic Wine, Newbury
As there is a War and Peace article in the magazine this month (see p24), JAMES
ALLEN thought he’d givie his column a Russian twist... and discovered some recurring
themes in Russian tastes – vodka and sweet wines being among the favourites
top
by
tipples
OA
food & drink