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While not as famous as Egyptian cotton West Indian Sea Island (WISI) cotton
is the longest, strongest, silkiest and highest grade of cotton found anywhere
in the world. Sea Island cotton is grown successfully in select hot, moist
environments in other regions however the rarest strain, accounting for 1%
of the world’s cotton and certainly the most expensive, is found exclusively
in the West Indies. According to Exclusive Cottons of the Caribbean Inc. this
is because the best Sea Cotton can only be grown “in the small land masses
of the Caribbean islands which have the right amount of sunshine, rain,
humidity, as well as a dry season and wet season in the right sequence for
the right duration.” It is a very specific formula and makes the WISI cotton 5
times more expensive than the next best grade available.
Jamaican Arlene Martin, owner of Drenna Luna, believes that the
Caribbean is not maximising harvesting and exportation opportunities for
this rare commodity. There are two distinct sides to Martin, the assertive
businesswoman and the dramatic fashion designer. But both sides agree
equally that another opportunity for regional diversification is lost by not
producing textiles from our own rare WISI cotton. “The fibre is here,” she
says, “but the fabric is not.” Referencing the success of The Republic of
the Philippines in producing Pina a delicate, translucent silk fabric made
from the leaves of a pineapple plant, Martin suggests that the Caribbean
needs to return to producing and exporting fabrics aggressively. “We have to
find better ways to use the resources available around us, to maximise our
opportunities for securing the Caribbean’s economic future.”
It is topics such as these that Martin seeks to address through the recently
developed Caribbean Fashion Industry Forum (CAFIF), the region’s first
fashion industry association that has a commitment to develop regulations
in the fashion industry across the region. “Our issues in the (fashion) industry
are not unique to each country, they are the same across the Caribbean.”
Therefore, Martin hopes that by bringing select regional partners in the
industry together, solutions can be achieved for all. The association is focused
on providing funding, market development, sourcing new raw materials and
the standardization and quality of production.
Martin is confident the role of the CAFIF aligns perfectly with that of the
Caribbean Export Development Agency, sharing the pursuit of bringing
regional businesses together to achieve mutual success in the Caribbean and
abroad. “Caribbean Export plays a significant role for regional businesses,”
Martin says, crediting the agency with providing “many different types
of support as needed.” The Jamaican entrepreneur and fashion designer
attended Caribbean Fashion Week, London Engage and London Fashion Week
through the assistance of Caribbean Export and notes that these exhibitions
“provided a foundation for understanding the export market.”
Martin is a believer in laying strong foundations and secured one for herself
from early. The fashion designer holds an MBA and prior to launching her
career in fashion, worked in the export trade. Previous experience in business
helped Martin tremendously. She takes a strategic approach to her creative
work and notes that her knowledge specifically in export has been useful.
The designer states she is running an enterprise and not just delivering
creative products. It is therefore important to understand both aspects of
Martin, the designer and the business professional in one person. “Fashion
has its own nuances in business such as different buying cycles,” and Martin
recognises that the business of fashion has a learning process of its own.
According to Martin, where greater education is needed is in comprehending
the enormous contribution which can be made to the regional economy
through the creative industries and specifically through fashion. “The
fashion industry directly contributes to the employment and subsequent
empowerment of women.” Enhanced opportunities for mass production both
locally and for regional and international export, provides employment for
seamstresses. Additionally the trade supports a cottage industry, permitting
the employed women to work from home, restoring balance to home life,
supporting a better community while contributing to the household and
wider economy.
Jamaican Ar lene Martin,
owner of Drenna Luna,
bel ieves that the
Caribbean is not
maximising harvesting
and exportation
opportunities for this
rare commodity.