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53

ITALIAN DRINKS

How To Drink Coffee

Here is what you can expect from a cup of

Lavazza coffee.

The Lavazza Single Origin Santa Marta

ground coffee blend comes from one place:

Colombia. It is 100% Arabica, which refers

to the coffee plant of origin (in the same way

that Merlot or Syrah refers to a variety of

grape). It is a medium roast leaning toward

dark, full and nutty with chocolate notes.

Gran Aroma is a straight-down-the-middle

medium roast. This is a good coffee to start

with. Before you drown it in cream or kill

it with sugar, give it a go on its own. You’ll

notice a distinct absence of that bitterness

you find with the cheap stuff. This coffee

will surprise you. If your palate is up for it,

try to find the coffee’s citrus undertones.

Lavazza’s Gran Selezione is a dark roast. A

coffee’s color — light, medium or dark — is

determined by the length of time its beans were roasted. Lighter

roasts will hit you over the head with a coffee’s origin — you’ll

know immediately, for example, if you’re drinking coffee from East

Africa versus South America — whereas dark blends are all about

the coffee’s aroma and flavor: chocolate or woody or tobacco, and so

on. Gran Selezione has distinct dark chocolate notes, and is non-

GMO and Rainforest Alliance Certified, meaning the beans were

harvested in an ecologically and socially sustainable manner. Finally,

you can feel good about something in your life.

Perfetto is an espresso roast, which is dark and characterized by

obvious caramel notes. In taste and mouthfeel — that is, its

aftertaste and body — this is the most Italian of the lot. The easy

question to ask when choosing this roast versus another is: “Do I

like espresso?” If the answer is yes, you know what to do.

Like wine across vintages, there is no set and permanent flavor of

coffee. As the Earth changes over time, that which we pull from

the soil will reflect these changes. Any coffee company’s aims are a

consistency of roast and an artistry of blend. To that end, Lavazza,

with one foot planted in the 19th century and the other in the

21st, keeps its traditions alive at the Lavazza Training Center,

headquartered in Turin and with 50 branches around the world.

Part history course, part laboratory and part master class in roasting,

tasting and preparation, the Center teaches new employees the “old

ways” alongside the new, so that new traditions grounded in the

Lavazza legacy might take root and grow.

Style, culture, borders and mores are ever in motion, and yet we still

listen to

La bohème

, admire Cezanne and read Jules Verne.We walk

through the Met and admire the cat made by Giacometti. Picasso

is both gone and here forever. While all this was happening, and

123 years after Luigi Lavazza elevated coffee into art, we still buy

it, drink it, and commune with the land and hands that brought it

to our table.

You Are Probably Eating Biscotti Wrong

Do you dip your biscotti in your coffee? At home,

nobody will judge you, but in Sicily, you might get a

few glares. Every culture takes its cuisine and food

culture seriously. You eat nigiri with your hands, not

with chopsticks. You never fill a wine glass more than

halfway. There’s no reason you can’t eat a cheeseburger

with a fork and knife, but it feels wrong when you see it

at the next table.

Italian food culture dictates that biscotti, or cantuccini,

is dipped traditionally in Vin Santo, a Tuscan dessert

wine. The taste and texture of the two treats

complement one another. Biscotti is very hard on

the teeth, and is helped along by a sweet drop of the

stronger stuff. After dinner, once plates are cleared

away, coffee comes last, and alone.