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36

MY

ROUSES

EVERYDAY

SEPTEMBER | OCTOBER 2016

The Italian Pantry

Stock your kitchen pantrywith these essential Italian ingredients.

ARTICHOKES

—Marinated artichoke hearts have been roasted and

dressed with seasoned oil, or oil and vinegar, giving them a tangy

flavor. They’re great for salads and antipasti. Artichokes canned in

water are great deep fried (

carciofi alla giudia

), braised Roman-style

(

carciofi alla Romana

), used as toppings for pizzas, and tossed with

pasta or risotto. Drain the can and squeeze the liquid of out of the

artichokes so you don’t add excess water to what you’re cooking.

BALSAMIC VINEGAR

— Wherever wine is made, vinegar is also.

Traditional balsamic vinegar is a regional specialty from the northern

Italian provinces of Modena and Reggio Emilia. This dark, sweet,

“true” balsamic is made with specific grapes according to strict

government guidelines and aged for 12 years. Most Italian balsamic

and wine vinegars are fine for cooking. Reserve more expensive

traditional balsamic vinegar to use as a dressing or condiment.

BREADCRUMBS

— You can make homemade breadcrumbs, but

canned breadcrumbs work in a pinch to add crunchy texture and

flavor to eggplant, veal and chicken parms.

CANNED TOMATOES

— Whole and crushed peeled

tomatoes canned in their juices are great for southern-style

tangy tomato sauces, and a simple sauté of whole tomatoes,

olive oil, minimal garlic and basil yields

pasta al pomodoro e

basilico.

Certified San Marzanos come from the Sarno valley

near Vesuvius. They have been awarded PDO (protected

designation of origin) status. Denser tomato paste is more

concentrated and adds almost a meaty flavor to dishes.Tomato

paste is usually made with plum tomatoes, which have thick,

meaty flesh, fewer seeds, less juice and thicker skins.

CANNED TUNA

— Premium tuna packed in olive oil is a common

pasta topping and a key ingredient in the northern Italian veal dish

vitello tonnato

.

CAPERS

— Salty, pickled capers berries are the secret to

chicken piccata.

Puttanesca

is a robust Neapolitan sauce made

with a combination of anchovies, olives, garlic, capers and

crushed red pepper.The saltiness of the anchovies and olives

is a great contrast to the sweetness of the tomatoes.

CRUSHED OR DRIED RED PEPPERS

— Fiery Italian red peppers

add heat to sauces.

Marinara

is simply olive oil, ripe tomatoes,

garlic, dried chile and dried oregano or fresh basil. This southern

Italian staple sauce can be paired with almost any shape of pasta.

Arrabbiata

sauce is a spicy tomato sauce made with hot red chili

peppers or chili flakes. Arrabbiata means angry in Italian; the name

of the sauce refers to the spiciness of the peppers.

DRIED HERBS & SEASONINGS

— Basil, bay leaf, crushed

red pepper, oregano, parsley, rosemary and thyme are common

ingredients in Italian cooking. Dried herbs have a much stronger

flavor than fresh. Substitute one teaspoon of dry herbs for 3

teaspoons of fresh.

DRY PASTA

— Pasta is available in a multitude of shapes and

sizes. Store unopened in a cool dry area. Once opened, transfer to

an airtight container. Long thin spaghetti and wider, fatter linguini

are best for tomato sauce and red gravy. Use a stubby shaped pasta,

with holes or ridges or cups for heavier sauces. Corkscrew-shaped

fusilli, spirali

(a butterfly shaped farfalle),

conchiglie

and ear-shaped

orecchiette

also work for heavier sauces, and are great for pasta salads.

ANCHOVY

— Anchovy fillets brined and salt cured and packed in oil or salt can be eaten whole,

or chopped or puréed and added to Caesar salads and puttanesca sauces. Anchovy paste, which

is sold in tubes, is a great substitute for whole or rolled canned fillets. The paste is made from

ground anchovy fillets mixed with salt and often sugar. It is saltier and more pungent than fillets.

the

Italian

issue