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Keep On Trucking
Another national trend that’s literally
fed into New Orleans’ post-storm
restaurant scene is the rise of the
food truck. In the months of early
recovery, taco trucks set up shop to
feed the many construction workers
here to spread blue roof tarps and
demo flooded homes.
Fast forward a few years and the
combination of comparatively low
startup costs and social media
popularity helped even more mobile
kitchens get their legs in New
Orleans. Some of them even gave up
their wheels and made the switch
to brick-and-mortar establishments.
Chef Nathanial Zimet built a mobile
reputation slinging garlic/parmesan
fries and boudin balls, took root in
the Carrollton neighborhood and
recently expanded to two locations
(including Boureee at Boucherie — a
wings and daiquiri joint) within easy
walking distance. The folks behind
the Fat Falafel food truck recently
opened a storefront in Mid City
near the Rouses on North Carrollton
serving their Mediterranean-inspired
snacks as 1000 Figs.
FRERET STREET
On the other side of Canal Street, Uptown’s Freret Street experienced a serious
transformation in the years since Katrina’s floods made it into a standing-water
shoreline. Formerly the home to a few old school joints like Dunbar’s Creole Cooking,
Freret’s feel changed significantly when Neal Bodenheimer and crew opened Cure,
their pioneering craft cocktail lounge, in a renovated firehouse.
Cure’s success provided an anchor and proof for other restaurateurs eager to expand their
empires or experiment with new concepts. Adam Biderman (alum of Link’s Herbsaint)
returned from a stint at Holeman & Finch Public House in Atlanta itching to build
a restaurant around his vision of the perfect, uncompromising diner-style classic, and
the nationally-renowned Company Burger was born. Local activist and developer Greg
Esslen (a booster for Freret since well before the storm) brought The Kingpin bar’s Steve
Watson into the neighborhood with Midway Pizza’s Chicago-style pies.
Adding to the culinary momentum, Adolfo Garcia (himself a pioneer of several noted
restaurants in the Warehouse District) renovated the old Antoine’s bakery building
into a double-barrel venture housing High Hat Cafe (Southern-style home cooking)
and Ancora (true Neopolitan-style pizza and salumi). A wave of other joints such as
Dat Dog and Liberty Cheese Steaks brought alternatives to the corner-store po-boys.
Dat Dog now has two more locations in the New Orleans area, on Magazine Street,
and Frenchmen Street in the Marigny.
[TOP LEFT] Company Burger
[BOTTOM LEFT] Dat Dog
MARIGNY / BYWATER
Meanwhile, on the far side of the French Quarter,
the downriver neighborhoods hugging the
Mississippi have undergone perhaps the most
dramatic changes since the floods. The Marigny,
St. Roch and Bywater are in the midst of a radical
transformation as the formerly working-class areas
have become textbook case studies in post-storm
gentrification.
Early on, there were but a few restaurant options
past the Press Street railroad tracks — Elizabeth’s
for brunch-time praline bacon, oysters at the
legendary Mandich’s, ramshackle wine-fueled
fun at the largely-improvised Bacchanal — but
in recent years, the landscape is exploding with
restaurants catering to the influx of new residents.
Trendy, upscale joints popped up on the side streets
to form a fashionable (yet less formal) scene — from
farm-to-table joints likeMaurepas Foods andMaritza
to cocktail-centric joint Oxsalis and the global street
food stylings of Booty’s.More casual options surfaced
over time, with Pizza Delicious rising from its secret
pop-up roots and upstarts like Red’s Chinese (eclectic
Asian) and Kebab (Mediterranean sandwiches)
perfectly situated to feed the club-bound crowds on
the rapidly growing St. Claude Avenue.
HURRICANE KATRINA
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RECOVERY
Maurepas Foods