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48

came the reply, ‘I don’t give a... ’ from one of the death

row inmates working that day.

The uniformed guy with a moustache, who had taken my

petrol money, seemed to have hated himself that

morning, but graduated to hating the whole world in the

afternoon. His spontaneous reaction to my question

about Brčko, a town which history had consigned to his

outrage because it had not ended up in Croatian hands

at the war’s end, did provoke something in the same

phylum as a smile. This was probably just to give me the

false sense that he was joking, rather than intending to

terrorize all passengers

en route

to the Serbian Entity.

I was fed up, and I had only just started.

Twenty minutes later, I was sipping undrinkable coffee at

the restaurant next door, wondering why this unspoken,

projected accusation could still make me feel like shit. I

put on the boil my hate for moustache guy, and it

bubbled into an imaginary biography, in which he was a

smuggler of stoves and washing machines stolen from

Serbian houses. I could picture Mr. Moustache carrying

Gorenje appliances up and down the village, after his

shift at the petrol station ended, offering them to

neighbours, claiming that they all came from his nice

Swedish son-in-law, who had just bought brand new

Electrolux appliances for his holiday home and didn’t

need them anymore. But when Mr. Moustache vanished