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57

Luckily, Enes had warned me that Bosnian customs

officers might check my green card, so I had it with me.

Satisfied, customs officer Muharem Hodzić next took a

look at my passport, staring for a minute without turning

a single page.

‘Where are you going, Vladan?’ ‘To Brčko.’

‘To Brčko.’

He was still staring at my photo, pretending that

memorizing my birth date and permanent address was

part of some hi-tech system for catching cottage cheese

and smoked meat smugglers.

‘Goooood.’

Muharem handed back my documents. A moment later I

stepped out into the territory known as Bosnia and

Herzegovina for the first time.