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^^^

CHAPTER

IX

urr

"

One

Devil Drives

out

Anotker

Deviling

is

a

particular

form

of

cookery

that

was

doubtless

devised

by

some

inventive

bachelor;

at

all

events,

"

devils

"

are

beloved

by

epi-

cures

the

world

over.

What

New

Yorker

does

not

remember

with

joy

the

famous

" devils

"

procurable

only

in

their

glory

at

"Jack's"?

There

is

a

subtlety

in

Jack's

concoctions

that

makes

the

chefs

at

Sherry's,

Delmon-

ico's.

Rector's,

and

Martin's

throw

up

their

hands

in

the

face

of

his in-

comparable

mixture.

The

"

devils

"

of

more

than

one

London

club,

but

particularly

the

Junior

Carlton

and

the

Army

and

Navy,

are

famed

the

world

over,

while

even

the

Somerset

Club

in

Boston

by

no

means

lags

behind

in

the

preparation

of

deviled

kidneys.

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