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168
OLD WALDORF-ASTORIA BAR BOOK
office in certain parts of this country-particularly below
Mason and Dixon's line, and most notably, perhaps, in
Kentucky, though in other states great pride is exhibited by
many citizens in the virtues of a compound whose recipe,
they claim, has been handed down in some particular fam–
ily for generations past.
In
recent years and in New York,
it seems to have become more closely identified with the
chewing gum industry than anything else. It might be em–
phasized that when the Old Waldorf recipes were com–
piled, the word "raspberry" had not become synonymous
with "horse's laugh" or any other anatomical performance
and the expression "give him the raspberry" had not come
into common use. Nor had "strawberries" entered the
realm of slang. Berries were berries and fruits were fruits.
It was a simpler age.
A few processes employed by bar-mixers of the old
American School, and named here and there, seem to call
for some clarification.
For example,
to
"muddle" meant to mash and stir up
one or more ingredients, and had no objective reference
to the person who was getting the drink; to "cup" meant
either to shape or use as a cup, or to place in the bottom
of a cup or glass; to "frappe" meant to cool with ice. More
frequently than not, a bartender averse to the vigorous
and more than local exercise demanded by plying a
cocktail-shaker achieved a similar effect by the finger-and–
wrist method of gently stirring a few lumps of ice with a
spoon, but, as already intimated, "stirring'' was often pre–
scribed in the formula.
Witfi' this brief introduction, one passes on to the Glos–
sary proper. The definitions are confined to terms used in
the compendium. The term "voltage," given where it is