Elite Traveler March-April 2016

EXPLORE RIO DE JANEIRO

Shredded kale or collard greens

Raw feijão

EAT & DRINK

Pork loin, and black beans

ANATOMY OF A MEAL FEIJOADA

Nothing defines Rio like the feijoada , a stew-cum-buffet that sweeps across the landscape and picks off essential ingredients in Brazil’s rich culinary history. Any meat can be used but the classic is pork loin, which stands up well to slow cooking in a big clay pot. The other essential is black beans, or feijão . These are cooked up into a rich, smoky stew and served with steamed rice, shredded kale or collard greens and, usually, orange slices. Farofa , a topping of manioc flour toasted in hot dendê oil, gives the dish texture while pickled malagueta peppers (small, spicy green peppers, used in many regional Brazilian recipes) add punch. Once a hearty meal for Brazil’s plantation workers, the feijoada is still a vital test for all serious chefs in this tradition loving nation.

CHEF FOCUS ROBERTA SUDBRACK Birthplace Porto Alegre, southern Brazil – city of the gaucho. Experience Seven years as executive chef at the presidential palace in Brasília, where she cooked for the likes of Bill Clinton and Fidel Castro. Workplace Opened in 2008, her eponymously named flagship is an airy, low-key space occupying a carefully renovated townhouse. Atmosphere Stylish but unfussy, elegant but never excessively so. Sources The eight-course tasting menu changes according to what’s available in the local food markets. Signatures House smoked okra "caviar", beetroot ravioli, banana ice cream and sorbet, plus other fruit desserts. Clientele Svelte fashionistas, local celebs and TV stars, relaxing business execs, Jardin resident expats. Where Close to the botanical gardens in Zona Sul. Prizes One Michelin star; Veuve Clicquot Latin America’s Best Female Chef 2015; three stars in Guia Quatro Rodas ; numerous accolades across Brazil’s media and gastronomy scenes. Contact + 55 21 3874 0139, Av. Lineu de Paula Machado 916, Jardim Botânico, robertasudbrack.com.br

WHERE TO EAT IT...

Bar do Mineiro This is regarded by top chef Roberta Sudbrack (left) as the best place for feijoada in the evening. +55 21 2221 9227 Rua Paschoal Carlos Magno 99 bardomineiro.net Copacabana Palace’s Pérgula Restaurant On Sundays – served by the pool. +55 21 2548 7070 Av. Atlântica 1702, Copacabana belmond.com