Elite Traveler March-April 2016

DISCOVER

elite traveler MAR/APR 2016 28

Piaget’s first complication for ladies . The in-house movement is visible through the sapphire back

BRAND PROFILE LAURENT FERRIER

After a successful 37-year career at Patek Philippe, Laurent Ferrier retired, but thankfully for the watch world, not for long. In 2010, he presented his first eponymous watch and the industry immediately recognized Ferrier with the prestigious Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève in his first year. Every component is designed in-house, each watch is assembled from start to finish by one watchmaker. It is not surprising that only 120 watches are made each year. laurentferrier.ch

1 Galet Traveller Globe Night Blue

This exceptional dial uses the traditional champlevé technique to carve out the oceans from the 18K white gold dial, before hand painting with enamel and finishing with dots of gold leaf to depict the earth’s lights as they appear when seen from space. $87,000 The original Galet Classic won the Grand Prix in 2010, and for 2016, Ferrier updates with a new cushion-cut case. The dial is white Grand Feu enamel with hand-painted Roman numerals and its clear back shows off the hand-finished movement and tourbillon. $208,000 3 Galet Secret At first glance, the dial appears to be a black fan. Only between certain times, or by pressing a button on the crown, is the hidden second dial revealed. Experts can paint a custom scene or set diamonds behind the fan. From $320,000 2 Galet Classic Square Tourbillon Double Balance Spring

Mechanical and complicated women’s watches were a focus for many brands at January’s Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie Genève. Roger Dubuis declared 2016 to be the “Year of the Diva”, Piaget introduced its first ladies’ complication, Cartier showed jeweled panther novelties and Van Cleef & Arpels released beautiful Poetic Complications. Of course there were diamonds, but the watchmakers here were talking more about the movements than the sparkle. Roger Dubuis unveiled 10 different mechanical Velvet watches, each attaining the prestigious Poinçon de Genève. Mother of pearl, Grand Feu enamel, even a carbon dial set with Paraíba tourmalines were shown, along with a bi-retrograde jumping date watch, limited to eight pieces. A collaboration with Parisian shoemaker Massaro produced a distinctive leather strap on a limited offering of 88 pieces. Piaget introduced the Limelight StellaMoon Phase, powered by a 135-tooth wheel that will keep the complication accurate for 122 years. Available with or without diamonds, Piaget gives women who care about watches a perfect piece for daytime. rogerdubuis.com; piaget.com AWoman’s Worth

Top Piaget Limelight Stella Blue, $29,700 Bottom Roger Dubuis Velvet by Massaro, $48,500