Elite Traveler March-April 2016

INFLUENCE WATCHES COLUMN

elite traveler MAR/APR 2016 53

Who are the pioneers of the watchmaking world? And, given that the industry is 500 years old, is there anything truly new left to invent and uncover? The answermay surprise you, says Roberta Naas Roberta Naas on the pioneers

way to production in other timepieces, the investment of human time and monetary resources was most likely well worth it. Similarly, Patek Philippe continues to take complicated watchmaking to new heights. Earlier this year, the brand unveiled the Grand Complication, Reference 6102P with mechanical automatic movement. The timepiece is a celestial watch with hours and minutes of mean solar time, sky chart, phases and orbit of the moon, time of meridian passage of Sirius and of the moon, Milky Way sky chart and much more. In fact, the 315 part Caliber 240 LU CL C movement consists of high tech, proprietary balance and balance Ulysse Nardin, a relative newcomer in the watch industry compared to these venerable brands, is also a viable rival in the pioneering of watchmaking. The brand has developed and unveiled a host of technical masteries, both in movement and functions over the past few decades. Its recently released Anchor Tourbillon features a unique constant escapement crafted in high tech silicium that revolutionizes the power transmission to the regulating system and improves the accuracy of the timepiece. Again, the piece is the result of eight years of development, and it won the Tourbillon Watch Prize at the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève last year. While few outside the watch collecting world can imagine the value of eight years of research to create a power transmission inside a mechanical watch, it is, nonetheless, a valuable addition to the advancement of watchmaking. It is inventions such as these, the revolutionary thinking and tireless quest to seek new frontiers that enable top luxury brands to stretch the limits of ideas – and timekeeping reality. Roberta Naas is an American journalist who has covered timepieces for more than 30 years. She is the founder of ATimelyPerspective.com, author of six books on the subject and contributing writer for many publications spring and holds a patent – all testament to Patek Philippe’s commitment to perfection.

Patek Philippe Grand Complication Reference 6102P $306,200

It’s been said that “everything old is new again” but in the world of watchmaking that only applies to retro designs. Instead, a visionary and pioneering spirit has become the ubiquitous hallmark of upper echelon brands. Certain brands have delved above and beyond normal research and development, going where no man (or watchmaker) has ever gone before and unveiling timepieces that have a significant effect on the future of the watch industry. And, make no mistake, perpetuating a half-a-millennium-year-old industry for another half a millennium is not an easy feat. When brands unveil custom made calibers that power new functions, when they release one of a kind and limited edition watches – it is not just to offer exclusivity. It is often because what they have accomplished in the research and development field and in the making of such watches is so extensive and complex that it can only be produced in small numbers. In fact, Vacheron Constantin recently unveiled its one of a kind, custom made Reference 57260, deemed the most

complicated watch in the world to date. With an estimated value of $8 million, the watch, custom ordered by a collector, is the result of eight years of work by three master watchmakers. Destined for legendary watchmaking status, the double-sided pocket watch holds 57 complications, including several functions that have never been incorporated into a watch before. The watch is a fait accompli , not only for the new systems and functions, but also for its 2,601 movement parts – the most ever in a watch. Why is that significant when it is a one of a kind, already sold watch? The answer is simple. While this watch is sold, the technology developed can be reinterpreted in the future and implemented into other timepieces for production. Among those functions: a Hebraic perpetual calendar, an all new flush fit alarm with choice of modes, an Armillary sphere tourbillon, several different calendars and more. In total, the watch holds an incredible 10 patents (with more pending). If only one or two of the concepts developed in this watch make their

Ulysse Nardin Anchor Tourbillon $85,000

Vacheron Constantin $8 million