12 / 31
Page 12
The Traverse. A challenging passage because of its rocky and icy surface (Alberto Zerain)
August 1st after 11:30
One Of Many Rescue Attempts
The Serb climbers, Predrag Zagorac and Iso Planic, followed by Muhammad Hussein, turn around and head towards
Dren. The summit attempt by the Serb team is aborted and preparations are made to rescue their colleague. Frederik
Sträng, having returned to Camp IV sees a body tumbling down the Bottleneck. He prepares himself to treat an
injured climber and rushes towards the spot where Dren came to a standstill. Jehan Baig follows him to provide
assistance.
Frederik Sträng
American 2008 International Expedition
“It is Cecilie Skog who is crying out a couple of times and we know instantly that something very bad has happened.
We rush out of the tent, and I take my camera trying to zoom in and identify what’s going on. We’re expecting either an
avalanche or serac fall, or that someone has fallen. Roberto from Italy is moving up to us and he gestures with his fingers,
rolling them to illustrate someone falling. Eric is trying to communicate with Chhiring Dorje on the radio. After a while
Chhiring answers our calls and he says that one of the Serbian climbers has fallen. And we can now see that from where
we’re standing, but he stands up so is still alive. Very soon after we negotiate with the Base Camp to get their approval to
make a rescue attempt. While the [Base Camp] administrators are making their decision, I’m packing one oxygen bottle
with mask and regulator, water, some chocolates, some basic first aid kits, sleeping pads and some ropes to carry him
down if necessary. We get the signal to go and then I start rushing up, climbing very fast towards the spot. During this time
Eric is comingwithmoremedicines andmoving behindme, much slower. I amusing Roberto’s radio but unfortunately this
radio isn’t compatible with Chhiring‘s radio, so it’s difficult to communicate and in fact I don’t get any messages at all.”