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August 1st after 13:00
A Question Of Turning Around
The attempt to bring down Dren’s body is now abandoned. Further up in the Bottleneck and Traverse, more climbers
decide to abort their summit attempt. These are Jelle Staleman, Nick Rice, Roberto Manni, Chris Klinke and Oystein
Stangerland. Despite the tragic circumstances and painfully slow progress, the rest of the climbers press on.
Cas van de Gevel
Norit K2 Dutch 2008 International Expedition
“There was some talk at the top of the Bottleneck, especially between Pemba and Gerard, about whether we should carry
on. They sounded a little bit like a couple arguing. Marco was saying, for example, let’s go on; it is a beautiful day and, as
we had said, it was everyone’s own decision whether to go on. The technical difficulty of 8,000 metre peaks is less most of
the time but the views when you get above all the mountains are very beautiful as you get higher and higher. That is the
attraction for people to keep on going.”
Jelle Staleman
Norit K2 Dutch 2008 International Expedition
“Because I was the youngest in Base Camp and the one with the least experience, I had already decided that I didn’t want
to descend in the dark. However, because we had to pick up the ropes, it took us four to five hours longer than we planned
and that meant I would have to descend in the dark. Actually, that was the biggest reason − I just thought I was not
experienced enough to descend in the dark but there was another reason. What happened as well was the result of the
altitude, I was just falling asleep sometimes − just standing and falling asleep. Not for hours but just for a minute. That
tells you that your mind is affected by the altitude. When I was awake, I really felt I could still think properly and also talked
with Cas a little bit and Gerard. I did not think I was thinking strangely, but I realised that somethingwas not normal. Those
were the reasons for me to turn around. And when I turned around, I wondered if I had made the best choice when I was
so close to summit.”
Chris Klinke
American 2008 International Expedition
“I come to the conclusion that it is not safe for me. I talk with Wilco, I talk with Chhiring and I make the decision to turn
back. I tried to talk Chhiring into coming back with me but he says ‘No, no I go on’. At that point I said ‘Make sure you have
your radio on.’ I gave him extra batteries for his radio and I turned around and descended.”
The Story So Far
Thirty-two climbers set off from Camp IV to summit K2. Ahead of them are the two most challenging passages, the
Bottleneck and the Traverse. Climbing in a single line below the Great Serac, it is of utmost important that they climb
fast but carefully to clear the section where an icefall is possible.
To speed up the passage through the Bottleneck and the Traverse, an Advance Team sets off to prepare the ascent
with bamboo sticks and a fixed line of rope. The Advance Team, however, starts fixing ropes too soon, unaware that
they may not have enough rope to secure the more challenging corridors towards the summit. The ascent comes to
a standstill because ropes from the lower sections of the Bottleneck need to be cut and brought up to where they
are needed.