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PITMASTER
Chef Rob:
We definitely are, mainly
by using local ingredients and products
whenever we can. Steen’s Cane Syrup,
strawberries from Pontchatoula, juice from
Plaquemines Parish citrus — those flavors
are incredible and so much better that what
we can get out of products from Mexico
and California. Once we get our feet
underneath us a bit more, we’re going to be
offering seafood items on our menu, which
will really help us put New Orleans on the
map as a destination for barbecue.
Brad Gottsegen:
Rob — what does one
have to do to earn the title “Pitmaster”? Does
it come with a pair of golden BBQ gloves?
Chef Rob: Time and sleepy eyes. It’s 12-
hour shifts or more, it’s dedication — I was
here at 9 o’clock last night and stayed here
until 7am today. It’s putting in the time to
make sure it’s done right.
BradGottsegen:
Seriously,given how difficult
this type of cooking is from a time intensity
standpoint, what led you to this career?
Chef Rob:
Stupidity. Honestly, it’s the
commitment I had to putting out a perfect
piece of BBQ. From my experience in fine
dining, my mentality is that the product is
perfect when the details are met. Whether
it be brisket or ribs, my burnt ends or pulled
pork, I feel like I have the spirit of the
legendary Chef Susan Spicer sitting on my
shoulder making sure I’m doing it properly.
She mentored Aaron and me when we were
coming up through the ranks as line cooks,
and I hear her voice all the time: “Are you
doing those greens right?Did you put enough
vinegar in? Are you tasting everything?”
Brad Gottsegen:
Aaron — you’re a
nationally renowned owner and chef at
Patois in New Orleans, a refined, bonafide
foodie restaurant. But you’ve also owned a
burger joint, and now own a barbecue joint.
Where do you see the local restaurant scene
headed?
Chef Aaron:
I’m always watching to see the
way the trends are going. With a couple of
notable exceptions, “fine” fine dining is dead
in New Orleans, and everything in the city
is so casual now. In order to survive, you
have to evolve to meet the changes in the
local landscape. In a fine dining setting, you
might see a customer once or twice a year,
but if you’re selling something delicious for
$10-12 a plate in a casual setting, where
they can come dressed as they are, they may
come back to you once or twice a week.
That’s the diversity we’re going for, and we
want our food to be accessible to everyone.
BradGottsegen:
One thing that’s interesting
to me is that, compared to many other
famous barbecue joints, such as Dreamland
in Alabama, that literally only sells meat
with sauce and a loaf of white bread, you
guys are focused on designing a full meal,
with lots of attention being paid to sides. Is
that a reflection of the well roundedness and
expectations of the NewOrleans consumer, or
more that y’all are just foodies?
Chef Rob:
It comes from me wanting to
cook what I like to eat, and that’s why we
bring it to the table. I really enjoy greens,
and the sweet corn spoonbread is something
we’ve turned into one of our signature dishes.
We also don’t like to throw anything away —
if we have any little brisket scraps we can’t
serve, we chop it up and add it to our brisket
chili. It’s part of our sustainability plan.
Brad Gottsegen:
Arguably, the most
popular item on your menu is burnt ends,
a delicacy that’s rarely seen outside of its
hometown, Kansas City. Can you tell me
about what they are and what goes into
preparing them?
Chef Rob:
They came to be by accident
when I was cooking at Smokin’ Buddha,
when a customer asked me why I wasn’t
making them. I did some research, starting
[PAGE 14] BBQ Sampler [TOP LEFT] Smoked Boudin [TOPRIGHT] Smoked Chicken [BOTTOM] Brisket Burnt Ends