16
MY
ROUSES
EVERYDAY
MARCH | APRIL 2017
the
Barbecue
issue
offering them, and it quickly became
something I’m now known for. It’s the
rendered, barky, fatty meat that comes from
the nose, or point of the brisket. We season
but don’t sauce our meat — we want you
to be able to see the smoke ring and really
enjoy the moist, intense flavor of the cut.
When done right, it’s one of the best bites
of food you can ever put in your mouth.
We’re now doing 800-1000 lbs. per week of
burnt ends alone, so it’s obviously taken off.
Brad Gottsegen:
Is there anything special
about the pits you’re cooking on? What
types of wood are you using?
Chef Rob:
We’re doing our indirect-heat
cooking of pork butts and briskets on
converted 1,000-gallon propane tanks,
low and slow, for 15-18 hours at 250-300
degrees. Right now, we’re mainly using oak,
but I like to throw in some hickory and
definitely some cherry or other fruitwood
when I can find it. We have custom direct
heat pits for our ribs, chicken, sausage, and
we smoke our wings before flash frying
them for our daily happy hour.
Brad Gottsegen:
The forgotten meat in the
world of barbecue seems to be chicken, but
y’all seem to feature it and do an especially
nice job of keeping yours juicy, while at the
same time smoky and flavorful. Does any
special prep go into your yardbird?
Chef Rob:
We use Springer Mountain
Farms chickens from Georgia, which
are organically and humanely raised on
a vegetarian diet with no antibiotics,
hormones or stimulants. All we do is add
seasoning and let the quality of the product
speak for itself. No injections or brining —
we just apply a rub and leave them alone.
Barbecue is meant to be a simple method of
cooking — if you fool with it too much, you
can easily mess it up.
Brad Gottsegen:
A lot of barbecue purists
are offended when a diner sauces their meat.
Are y’all sauce snobs?
Chef Rob:
I want to make people happy, and
they can eat my barbecue any way they want
to.Wedon’t sauce our product in the kitchen,
but we have three sauces at every table, and
we also make Alabama white sauce for those
that like it as well. After Kartrina, my wife
and I wound up in Vermont, and we used to
make applesauce from apples taken directly
from the orchards up there. It eventually
made its way into our sweet barbecue sauce
and remains a main ingredient today, so its
nostalgic for us in that it tells part of the
story of our culinary journey from New
Orleans up north and then back.
Brad Gottsegen:
How much of your
protein is sourced locally?
Chef Aaron:
We’re getting a lot of our pork
from Chappapeela Farms from Husser,
Louisiana, and the quality is just amazing.
Beef in quantity is harder to come by locally,
but because our burnt ends have become so
popular and are now a regular menu item,
we’ve found a supplier that is providing us
just the “nose” of briskets, which is the part
of the cut that burnt ends come from.
Brad Gottsegen:
Historically, barbecue
has been associated with sweet tea and
beer, but you guys have built a substantial
bar program with top-shelf bourbons and
craft cocktails. How did that play into the
planning of your overall concept?
Chef Rob:
My whole thought was that
if we were going to serve craft, artisan
barbecue, we should also serve craft and
artisan cocktails to go with it. There are
a lot of bars in this city, and you have to
do something to make yourself stand out.
We’re using all fresh juices and taking no
shortcuts, and as a result, we’re producing
some really delicious, creative drinks.
Brad Gottsegen:
What’s your vision for
the future of this neighborhood?
Chef Aaron:
We’re continuing to acquire
parcels of land around the restaurant, so we
can expand our offerings to outdoor spaces,
including live music and large parties.
We’re also nearly finished construction
of our indoor reception space, so we can
accommodate large groups for weddings,
corporate events, etc. We want to have a
positive impact and be a partner to the
people that have been here a lot longer than
we have, and given that over 50% of our
employees come from close by, we want to
do what we can to help this area become a
great place to live as well as to eat.
Interviewer Brad Gottsegen
is a member of
Team Fleur de Que, which won the 2016 Hogs
for the Cause “Top Fundraiser” Award for
the fifth straight year by donating $150,000
to families struggling against pediatric brain
cancer. They also won “Best Booth” too.
Central City BBQ
Central City BBQ (CCBBQ) is located at
1201 S. Rampart Street near the Downtown
New Orleans Rouses Market. CCBBQ is open
for lunch Wednesday thru Sunday.
“[We’re] using local ingredients and products whenever we can.
Steen’s Cane Syrup, strawberries from Pontchatoula, juice from Plaquemines Parish
citrus — those flavors are incredible ...”
Pitmaster Rob Bechtold