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weather

sets

jn,

the

wine

becomes

clear

and

is

drawn

off,

the

lees

remaining

in

the

cask.

The

wine-producing

district

of

Champagne

may

be

divided

into

three

regions.

First,

the

mountain

country

of

Rheims,

where

the

grapes

possess

the

distinctive

qualities

of

vinosity

and

freshness;

second

the

Avize

district,

notable

for

wines

made

from

white

grapes,

which

are.

of

great

delicacy;

and

third,

the

Valley

of

the

Marne,

where

the

wines

are

char-

acterized

by

an

excellent

bouquet.

Wines

made

solely

from

grapes

of

any

one

district

would

be

found

disappointing.

One

must

unite

the

freshness

and

strength

of

Verzenay

with

the

mellowness

of

Bouzy,

the

softness

of

Cramant,

and

the

bouquet

of

Ay,

in

order

to

blend

into

a

champagne

all

the

delightful

qualities

which

a

connoisseur

expects

to

find.

During

January

and

February

the

wine-maker

mixes

in

im-

mense

casks

the

wines

from

different

vineyards.

Wines

want

character,

bouquet,

vinosity

and

delicacy,

and

these

qualities

can

only

be

secured

by

the

mixture

of

wines

possess-

ing

these

elements

individually.

To

make

a

fine

champagne

one

must

know

thoroughly

the

characteristics

of

the

wine

of

each

vineyard,

and

this

requires

a

keen

sense

of

smell

and

taste,

and

great

skill

and

experience.

By

this

system,

it

is

possible

for

the

shipper

to

keep

up

a

uniform

excellence

of

his

wines,

and

to

duplicate

each

ship-

ment

despite

a

succession

of

bad

vintages.

There

are

other

districts

surrounding

where good

wines

are

grown.

The

pale,

delicate

Manzanilla

is

grown

around

the

little

town

of

San

Lucas

de

Barrameda,

about

fifteen

miles

from

Jerez,

and

Puerto

de

Santa

Maria

yields,

somewhat

inferior

wines

to

the

neighboring

districts

mentioned.

Champagne,

as

everybody

knows,

takes

its

name

from

the

French

province

in

which

it

is

produced,

but

everybody

does

not

know

that

Sparkling

Champagne

was

the

discovery

of a

monk

belonging

to

the

royal

monastery

of

St.

Pierre

at

Hautvilliers.

His

name

was

Father

Perignon,

and

he

died

in

1715.

The

chief

depots

of

Champagne

are

at

Ay,

Epernay,

and

Rheims,

where

the

quantity

kept

in

stock

is

exceedingly

large.

The

sparkle

or

"mousse"

as

the

French

term

is,

which

characterizes

Champagne,

is

produced

by

the^

development

of

carbonic

acid

gas

from

the

saccharine

constituents

of

the

grape

juice,

and

is

sometimes

assisted

in

bad

years

by

the

addition

of

sugar

to

the

fermenting

wine.

Afterwards

when

the

wine

has

fermented

in

the

cask

until

the

Spring,

it

is

bot-

tled.

In

the

bottle,

slight

fermentation

continues,

and

a

sedi-

ment

is

formed,

which

is

adroitly

thrown

out

shortly

before

the

wine

is

required

for

the

market,

and

this

process

is

termed

"disgorging."

The

wine

then

receives

a

certain

quantity

of

liqueur,

composed

of

the

finest

cane

sugar

dis-

solved

in

old

still

wine.

Champagne

merchants

have

each

their

own

views

as to

the

quantity

of

liqueur

which

ought

to

be

used.

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