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must

be

got

rid

of.

This

is

effected

by

two

operations.

These

are

the

"mise

sur

pointe"

and

the

"disgorgement."

THE

MISE

SUR

POINTE

The

bottles

are

placed

head

downward

through

an

inclined

plank

pierced

with

holes

at

an

angle

of

70

degrees.

Every-

day

for

at

least

three

months

a

cellarman,

specially

trained

for

this

kind

of

work,

shakes

the

bottles

lightly

against

the

plank with

a

wrist

movement

quick

and

sharp.

The

deposit

slowly

descends

and

collects

on

the

cork.

THE

DISGORGEMENT

The

deposit,

having

settled

on

the

cork,

is

now

ready

to

be

extracted.

To

do

this

the

bottle

is

first

placed

head

downward,

to

a

depth

of

three

inches,

in

a

refrigerating

bath.

Under

the action

of

the

cold,

the

deposit

congeals

in

the

neck

of

the

bottle.

The

cellarman

then

takes

the

bottle

out

of

the

bath,

holds

it

upright,

undoes

the

clasp

and

eases

the

cork,

which

the

pressure

of

the

carbonic

gas

inside

eventually

forces

out

with

a

loud

report,

together

with

the

deposit.

The

wine

is

then

absolutely

clear.

THE

LIQUEURING

After

disgorging,

the

wine

has

not

the

least

taste

of

sugar,

the

sugar

added

at

bottling

having

been

completely

trans-

formed

into

alcohol

and

carbonic

acid.

Whilst

in

this

state

the

wine

is

known

as

"brut."

To

regulate

it

to

the

client's

taste,

which

varies

in

different

countries,

a

certain

quantity

of

liqueur,

composed

of

sugar

candy

and

wine

from

the

finest

Champagne

vineyards,

is

added

immediately

after

the

dis-

gorging.

THE

CORKING

For

corking,

the

best

Spanish

corks

are

used

and

are

held

in

by

either

string

and

wire

or

wire

muzzle,

according

to

the

custom

of

each

house.

Finally

the

capsule

and

label

are

put

on

and

the

bottles

are

packed

in

cases

or

baskets

ready

for

shipment.

The

cellars

are

located

at

Rheims,

Epernay,

Ay,

Avize,

etc.,

and

are

well

worth

seeing.

ALWAYS

A

LUXURY

True

champagne

can

never

be

other

than

a

luxury,

from

the

cost

of

cultivation,

the

care

in

making,

the

long

period

elapsing

before

the

wine

has

reached

maturity

and

principallv

because

of

the

limited

area

in

which

it

can

be

produced.

The

loss

from

leakage

and

breakage

is

enormous,

owing

to

the

pressure

upon

the

bottle,

and

difficulty

of

transportation.

10