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SAUTERNES

Un

Rayon

de

Soleil

Concentre

Dans

un

Verre

(Biarnez).

The

region

which

produces

the

celebrated

white

wines

universally

known

under

the

name

of

sauternes

is

situated

on

the

left

bank

of

the

Garonne,

about

35

kilometers

south

of

Bordeaux,

and

includes

the

communes

or

parishes

of

Barsac,

Bommes,

Fargues,

Sauternes

and

Preignac,

and

a

part

of

Saint-Pierre

de

Mons.

The

country

is

hilly,

admirably

exposed

to

the

rays

of

the

sun,

which

explains,

to

a

great

extent,

the

degree

of

maturity

the

grapes

attain.

The

soil

is

more

or

less

sandy,

argillo-sillico-calcareous

in

some

parts,

argillo

calcareous

(as

at

Barsac)

or

entirely

argillaceous

in

others.

There

is

no

doubt

that

to

this

particularly

favorable

soil

is

due

in

a

great

measure

the

superiority

of

the

Sauterne

wines,

which

it

is

impossible

to

equal

anywhere

else,

however

careful

the

vinification

may

be.

But

it

is

only

just

to

add

that

the

selection

of

the

vine

plants,

the

extraordinary

care

bestowed

on

the

culture

of

the

vineyards,

the

special

and

expensive

vini-

fication,

contribute

to

ensure

perfection

in

bouquet,

color,

and

finesse

in

a

wine

to

which

no

other

can

be

compared,

for

the

simple

reason

that,

of

its

kind,

there

exists

nothing

like

it.

The

appearance

of

the

vineyards

in

this

region

differs

from

that

of

the

Medoc,

inasmuch

as

the

vines

are

high;

the

sur-

rounding

country

in

which

culture

is

more

varied,

is

hilly

and

picturesque,

the

views

from

some

of

the

heights,

that,

amongst

others,

on

which

Chateau

Yquem

is

situated,

extending

miles

over

fertile

scenery.

It

would

take

too

much

space

to

describe

minutely

the

labor

involved

in

cultivating

these

vineyards;

each

season,

or,

more

exactly,

each

day,

brings

its

task,

and

nothing

must

be

neg-

lected,

however

futile

this

may

appear

to

the

uninitiated.

As

before

mentioned,

the

grapes

are

gathered

and

pressed

in

a

manner

peculiar

to

the

district.

The

gathering

takes

place

later

than

in

the

Medoc

and

lasts

much

longer,

commencing

at

the

end

of

September,

and

ter-

minating

in

the

first

half of

November.

The

grapes

are

al-

lowed

to

attain

the

extreme

degree

of

ripeness,

and,

after

taking

a

deep

golden

color,

they

finally,

under

the

influence

of

the

mycoderma

"Botrytis

Cinera,"

become

over-ripe,

a

state

absolutely

necessary

to

ensure

the

quality

of

the

future

wine.

The

berry

subsequently

becomes

browned

and

roasted,

the

skin

gets

thin

and

cracks,

and

a

sugary

juice

oozes

from

it.

Little

by

little,

each berry

advances

to

this

state

until

the

whole

bunch

forms,

so

to

speak,

but

one

mass

of

juicy

fruit.

It

may

easily

be

imagined

how

fragile

the

grapes

are

when

they

get

to

this

degree

of

maturity,

and

how,

whilst

they

gain

if

the

weather

remains

fine,

they

are

likely

to

suffer

if

it

becomes

rainy.

The

gathering

is

effected

in

small

quantities

at

a

time,

and

12