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only
as
each
bunch
of
grapes
attains
the
advanced
state
described
above.
Sometimes,
and
especially
in
the
first
growths,
each
berry
is
gathered
separately
and
more
or
less
quickly,
according
to
the
weather.
When
rainy,
the
opera-
tions
are
suspended
and
resumed
when
it
becomes
dry
again.
It
is
easy
to
see
that
quantity
here
is
sacrificed
to
quality,
and
that
the
expenses
of
wine
making,
under
such
circum-
stances,
must
necessarily
be
high.
It
often
requires
as
many
as
six
successive
pickings
to
gather
one
bunch.
The
cost
of
cultivating
vineyards
in
the
Sauternes
district
is
estimated
to
range
from
1000
to
1200
francs
per
hectare,
inclusive
of
grape-
picking
and
purchase
of
casks;
the
yield
per
hectare
may
be
roughly
estimated
at
from
4
to
7
hogsheads,
according
to
the
vintage.
Vintaged
by
ordinary
methods,
the
wines
would
yield
at
least
one-third
more.
In
the
superior
growths,
there
are
three
selections
or
"tries."
The
first,
comprising
the
berries
which
have
dried
somewhat
after
becoming
over-ripe,
yields
what
is
known
as
"vin
de
tete."
The
second
selection
comprises
the
berries
in
a
somewhat
less
advanced
state
and
yields
a
larger
quantity;
the
third
includes
the
remainder
of
the
grapes,
which,
al-
though
ripe,
have
not
attained
the
same
degree
of
maturity
as
the
others;
the
wine
pressed
from
it
is
called
"vin
de
queue"
and
is
relatively
unimportant
in
quantity.
The
grapes
are
pressed
rapidly,
so
as
to
prevent
the
wine
from
taking
too
deep
a
color
from
the
skin.
The
must
which
flows
from
the
press
is
at
once
put
into
casks,
where
the
fer-
mentation
takes
place
almost
immediately
and
lasts
several
weeks,
the
duration
depending
on
the
style
of
the
wine and
on
the
temperature.
The
quality
is
approximately
judged
by
the
musts,
but
it
is
only
after
the
first
racking,
generally
when
the
winter
is
over,
that
a
definite
opinion
can
be
formed.
Four
rackings
a
year
are
necessary,
sometimes
five
for
wines
of
the
first
picking,
and
a
daily
inspection,
tasting
and
filling
of
the
casks,
are
requisite
to
ensure
proper
treatment.
The
classed
growths
are
sold
under
their
name,
Chateau
Yquem
being
the
first
and
probably
the
best
known.
But
simply
as
sauternes,
barsac,
bommes,
preignac,
etc.,
wines
of
the
highest
grade
are
sold
and
fetch
high
prices,
the
greatest
care
being
bestowed
on
the
small
vineyards
as
on
the
large
ones.
Sauternes
—
of
succeeded
vintages—
are
delicate
in
flavor,
of
a
pale
golden
color,
mellow,
rich,
bordering
on
sweetness,
and
have
a
fine,
agreeable
bouquet;
they
are
hygienic,
not
heady,
and
merit
the
description
of
perfection
in
white
wines.
Dr.
Mauriac,
of
Bordeaux,
says
in
one
of
his
works:
"The
great
Sauternes
white
wines,
which
are
of
a
relatively
high
alcoholic
strength,
are
both
tonic
and
stimulating;
consumed
moderately,
they
are
invaluable
to
convalescents
after
a
severe
illness
or
when
it
is
necessary
to
revive
an
organism
attenu-
ated
by
high
fever,
hemorrhage,
or
long
fatigue.
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