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27
WE ARE WHAT WE EAT
another man’s Evangeline. You say Tabasco,
I say Crystal. What’ll it be, Mister —
Zatarain’s or Tony Chachere’s?
Chee Wees or Zapp’s? Barq’s or
Big Shot?
We all drink coffee, but if you
like yours with chicory (I not
only think it’s a little bitter for my
tastes), I also probably know where
you and your momma come from.
(Unless you call her your “mother,”
then, well — I might need a minute.)
Answer me these following questions,
and I know more about you than if you
told me your age, gender and job; more
about you than your doctor; more, even,
than a tarot reader in Jackson Square:
How do you like your greens? Chard, turnip
or collard? Do you call it a yam or a sweet
potato? Snap beans, green beans or string
beans?
And if you call it a chayote squash instead of a
militon (or merliton), I know you’re not from
around these parts, Mister, so drop the fork —
slowly — and put up your hands.
What’s your indulgence – pickle tips or cracklins?
And to wash it all down, Tin Roof, La-1, Lazy
Magnolia or Abita? And if it’s Abita, is it Amber,
Golden, Purple Haze, Wheat, Andygator ... Ok,
you get the point.
It’s all different, but it’s all the same. It’s what we eat
and drink. It is us.
For instance, only in NewOrleans would you speak of the Mandinas
and Liuzzas like they’re members of your family tree — even though
you’re Jewish. You trust the names Leidenheimer, Kleinpeter and
Peychaud like kinfolk, but you’re Irish Catholic.
We’re all closer to each other
than we may think, nurtured
through generations at the
bounteous trough provided by
Gulf Coast fields, forests and
waters.Weare bound less by the
existence of our common diet
and more by our unwavering
ardor for our shared foodstuffs.
We are linked by, among other
things, the links we love to eat, be they Manda, Savoie, Rouses
or Richard’s. These are the comfort names of our comfort foods.
They are names — and people, families — you trust, because they
have always been there. In the ads, on the labels, right there in your
cupboards and pantries. And what on God’s green earth is more
sacred in a Southern home — after our requisite alters, devotionals
and bathtub Virgin Marys — than our cupboards and pantries?
It is the lulling and contended sense of the familiar that makes a
home a home. Oysters breed in cool waters the world over, but if
you ask someone from around here what an oyster tastes like, there
is only the salty-sweet, chewy brine of a Gulf oyster.
Crabs come in King, Snow
and Dungeness species, among
others, but what a crab tastes like
to you is what a crab tastes like
to me: Blue.
Boiled not steamed.
You make a roux like I make a
roux, and everyone who doesn’t
is just making soup.
We are what we eat, and that is the world around us, close to us,
dear to
us.Weare the collective experience of our shared meals and
bread broken in communal reverie and respect.
We are what we eat: Abundant, fruitful, flavorful, messy, spicy,
sometimes sweet, sometimes sour and — at our best — very hot.
We are unusual, colorful and
creative.Weare traditional, provincial and
communal.Weare
family.Weare what we eat, and we love who we are.
All those products we recognize from Rouses shelves
and freezers — Blue Runner, Blue Plate, Manda,
Chisesi, Savoie, Steen’s, Barq’s, Connecuh, Zapp’s and,
appropriately, Community — aren’t just names on a
label, but part of our lives, literally.
WHAT’S YOUR FLAVOR?
Zapp’s sells 16 different
flavors of potato
chips, including Bar-
B-Que, Cajun Dill, Salt
& Vinegar and Hotter
’N Hot Jalapeño. For
our 50th anniversary,
they made a special
commemorative run of
Spicy Cajun Crawtators
just for Rouses. The
bag featured J.P.
Rouse’s City Produce
Company’s truck and
the message: “From
the Zappe family to
the Rouse family,
congratulations on
50 great years.”