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second, an embrace of eclectic influences. “As clients
and chefs travel around the world, many restaurants
are mixing traditional French ingredients with exotic
ones from Asia,” says Brooke, who cites Matsuhisa at
Le Royal Monceau as Paris’ first Japanese-Peruvian
restaurant. In décor, the 16-year Paris resident ob-
serves a break from classic French settings to more
daring modern aesthetics.
London’s culinary scene has emerged as one of
the world’s most exciting — jokes about British food
are becoming obsolete in the capital — as premier
chefs from around the world have taken cover in the
city’s fine hotels. In fact, France’s prolific Alain Ducasse
earns another trio of Michelin stars at The Dorchester,
a grande dame of London hotels, while homegrown
talent includes three-star Dinner by Heston Blumenthal
at the Mandarin Oriental.
At the Plaza Athénée, and to a lesser degree
at The Dorchester, Ducasse prepares a lighter French
cuisine showcasing seasonal local produce, a trend
gaining momentum across Europe according to
chef Alessandro Buffolino of Milan’s Hotel Principe
di Savoia. “Increasingly, guests show a passion for
light cuisine and innovative ways of cooking,” he says,
although he admits French haute cuisine remains fash-
ionable. “Fusion cuisine is also popular, with iconic
“Increasingly,
guests show a
passion for light
cuisine and
innovative ways
of cooking,”
—Chef Alessandro Buffolino
Asian ingredients such as lemongrass or soy in tradi-
tional Italian dishes,” adds Buffolino.
A favorite of traveling celebrities is Rome’s Hotel
Hassler atop the Spanish Steps, and its sixth-floor
restaurant Imàgo occupies what was once a rooftop
terrace. Guests have panoramic views of the city’s
iconic landmarks while enjoying the contemporary Ital-
ian cuisine of chef Francesco Apreda, who turns out
imaginative dishes like red onion and foie gras risotto
with spicy coffee powder.
Roberto E. Wirth, owner and general manager
of the Hassler, states, “Hotels hire famous chefs to
get the maximum promotion of their properties and
restaurants,” but insists his hotel’s relationship with
Apreda is not so calculated or cynical. “Things were
different at the Hassler, as our chef became famous
and well-known worldwide through his work with us,”
explains the hotelier.
Wirth believes that a single distinguished res-
taurant is insufficient for a world-class property. “I’m
convinced that exclusive hotels should have at least
two restaurants offering different types of cuisine: a
gourmet dining room and a more traditional restaurant
to satisfy all guests,” he says. In addition to Michelin-
starred Imàgo, the Hassler houses Salone Eva, offer-
ing more traditional Roman cuisine and an Italian riff
LE MAROCAIN, MARRAKESH
COURTESY PRINCIPE DI SAVOIA
COURTESY LA MAMOUNIA