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48
MY
ROUSES
EVERYDAY
NOVEMBER | DECEMBER 2015
the
Holiday Entertaining
issue
Ciao Down:
A Food Tour of Italy
by
Donald Rouse
W
e just returned from a research trip to Italy that included
stays in Bologna,Tuscany, Reggio nell’Emilia and Parma,
four of the most famous food regions in the world.
We like knowing where our food comes from and how it is made.
We make at least two major food-buying trips each year. Last year,
we went to Rome for Roman artichokes, “00” flour, oil-cured olives,
balsamic creams and white truffle oils. On this year’s trip to Italy, we
were looking for Parma ham, Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese, pasta,
garlic, wine, olive oils and vinegars.
Pork, especially cured pork, is very popular
in central Italy, just as it is here on the Gulf
Coast. In Parma we picked out hams made
from specially fed North Central Italian
pigs. In Langhirano we learned how to cure
prosciutto. In Bologna, we watched them
make mortadella, one of the meats we use
on our muffalettas.
One of my favorite parts of any research
trip is a visit to the local markets. In Reggio
nell’Emilia, we took a chef-led excursion
through the farmer’s market. The stalls are
draped with braided strands of garlic (look
for them now in our stores), and we stopped
and sampled fabulous cheeses, cured meats,
breads and cappelletti.The seafood and fresh fruits and
vegetables were gorgeous.
We also visited Modena where we tried the acetaia del
balsamico, a full-bodied aged vinegar that’s much stronger
than your typical balsamic.The Modenesi use a technique
that dates back to the Middle Ages to make it. We sell
several varieties — you’ll love it on salads and meats.
My father’s family is from Sardinia, which is famous
for its Pecorino Romano, a hard, salty cheese made out
of sheep’s milk. Reggio nell’Emilia is famous for its
rich, nutty Parmigiano-Reggiano, which is made out
of unpasteurized cow’s milk. At O Caseificio Stocchi
Andrea we walked among the giant wheels of Parmesan
— you can’t imagine the smell. We couldn’t wait to
sample! And I can’t wait for you, too — we brought
them back for our cheese departments.
If you’ve been, you know Italy is a feast for your nose
as much as your eyes, mouth and ears. We arrived at
Antico Pastificio Morelli, a family-run pasta factory that
has been crafting pasta since 1860, just as they started
on their famous truffle pasta. There was a musky, nutty
smell inside and out.That’s what real truffles smell like.
In Tuscany we toured the region’s historic vineyards and
olive orchards. We had a private tour of a 150-year-
old Italian family winery, Cleto Chiarli, with one of its
owners,Mauro Chiarli, a fourth generation wine maker.
Cleto Chiarli was the first winery to popularized the
sparkling Lambrusco wines — try them with our Gulf
oysters, shrimp, crabmeat and fish; they’re fantastic
with seafood. We also spent a weekend in the hilltop
town of Montalcino, which overlooks the vineyards of
sangiovese grapes used to make one of Italy’s best-known wines,
Brunello di
Montalcino.Wesell Banfi’s Brunello di Montalcinos in
our stores; they’re ideally paired with roasted meats.
Finally, we went to Florence, where we took a master class with one of
leading experts in olive oil (we’re expanding our selection). We were
also treated to a behind-the-scenes tour of one of Italy’s most famous
bakeries, followed by lunch at the Ricchi family restaurant and dessert
at a gelateria. It was the perfect ending to a perfect buying trip.
[LEFT] Donald Rouse [RIGHT]TimAcosta,Mauro Chiarli,Donald Rouse and Steve Galtier at Cleto ChiarliWinery,Tuscany.